Hi All,

I have a 88 Bronco 2 with some probs and I want to run it past the group. The biggest one is that when the vehicle warms up in our climate,(110 degree days here) it hesitates and cuts out on acceleration as well as high speeds. I have changed the fuel filter with no effect on it. I have ran the code scanner on it, and changed the O2 sensor, so that is not the problem. I did get a code showing a faulty PIP signal, but it only showed up once, and never again. I am thinking that maybe the TFI unit is weak, and maybe replacing it will take care of the problem, as all the sensors were cleaned and checked out. The second problem is that the vehicle seems to not have a whole lot of power to it. I read in here about the cat might be plugged, and I am going to put the vacum gauge on it and see if that is the case, or what ever else shows up. Any other suggestions are appreciated.

 

Check the cats and the fuel pressure, based on my experience.

The TFI on my 90 B2 was crapping out a while ago, but when it would act up the engine would just die. Wouldn't start until it had cooled off 20 minutes or more. After I solved the overheating problem (cats beginning to clog, fan clutch bad, and put in a 180 thermostat) the TFI problem seems to be OK. Put in a new TFI just in case, though, and carry the old one as a spare.

A similar problem was the fuel pump, but it would just lose power when the engine got hot (had to do with warm fuel returning to tank, I think). After I replaced it, the problem went away but I still thought I should have more power. Replaced the fuel pressure regulator and WOW, there's the power I was missing.

Went from 18 mgp to 20 after fixing the cats, and from 20 to 22 after replacing the FPR. I like my little B2 much better now.

Note that both the TFI and the FPR require a special tool (about 5 bucks and 2 bucks) that's available at pretty much any parts store.

 

Most problems with a B2 can be traced to the TFI module. I carry a spare in my truck.

Since there is no code showing up, here is what I would check. The coil connections. I had problems like you describe and it ended up being bad wires in the harness connector that attaches to the coil. NAPA and Autozone sell new connectors.

 

Thanks Rich and Recarbo.:-) I did purchase a new TFI unit, but have not put it in yet. Will do that in the next couple of days. I did check the exhaust for restrictions with a vacum gauge with no restrictions found. I will let you know how things work out after the new unit is in.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 22-Jul-02 AT 05:15 PM (EST)]Hmmm, it's been almost a week and no update. In my experience, changing the TFI should take about 15 minutes the SECOND time you do it.

The first time you do it, add 30 minutes to figure out where the bolts are and how to see them (I finally borrowed an old makeup case and used the small mirror and a flashlight). Then add a couple of hours to figure out that you need a special tool. This may require additional time and money if you go to Sears and various parts stores trying to find a deep socket that will fit. (You won't find one.) Add another half-hour for getting online and searching for the answer on the internet. Finally, add 30 minutes to go down to the parts store and pay $5 or $6 for the tool (everyone carries them, but no one tells you that you need it when you buy the TFI module). Once you have the tool and know where the bolts are, it's a simple job.

Hopefully, this will help someone avoid a few steps in the process that I went through.

And hopefully, AZ_MEDIC228 got his problem solved. If it was the TFI, you might consider swapping the stock 195* thermostat for a 180, and/or flushing the cooling system. The TFI fries because it gets too hot. Anything you can do to keep things cooler (within reason) may be helpful.

 

Watch out! Some of the TFI modules have a plastic caps over the 2 screws holding them on to the distributor. I had to pull my dist to get them off. I think you can pry them off with a small knife with out pulling the dist. The sides of the caps (plugs) can be pryed up on the side.

 

>"Finally, add 30 minutes to go down
>to the parts store and pay $5 or $6 for the tool (everyone
>carries them, but no one tells you that you need it when you
>buy the TFI module). Once you have the tool and know where
>the bolts are, it's a simple job."
>
>Hopefully, this will help someone avoid a few steps in the
>process that I went through.
>

I read and read hoping to find out from your post what size the socket is "special tool" I assume it is a socket you are talking about...? I think I am going to replace mine because of a strange
tach problem (reads RPMs too high when the engine is cold) and I have heard that the TFI is the problem


Brian
90 BII EB
brian31@xmission.com

 

Just ask the guys at the parts store for a "Ford TFI Module Tool". They'll point you right to it on the shelf. It will have a socket on one end and a torx head on the other. You use a 1/2" wrench to turn it. I don't recall what size the socket is, but it's not the size that gets you (it's some std size), it's the the thin wall. A normal socket won't fit through the hole in the TFI. This tool has a very thin-walled socket. If the parts store guy doesn't know what you're talking about, he's only been working there for less than a week.