Soundproofing help please....
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Senior User
Joined: May 2004
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From: Chesapeake, VA
Soundproofing help please....
I am in the process of building a 14' x 20' shop in the backyard, mainly for woodworking. I will be sheathing the outside walls with 3/4" IMP board (that brown fiber type stuff, cheap at $5 a 4x8 sheet) and then over the top of that with HardiPanel siding. The walls are 2x4 and I was planning on putting R-13 in the walls.
Now to the question, do you have any suggestions on what to cover the interior walls with in order to keep the noise down? I do a lot of my woodworking at night, and really don't want to disturb the neighbors.
Since there will be a great deal of sawdust made out there, Aurelex foam isn't an option, would be a nightmare to clean. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Now to the question, do you have any suggestions on what to cover the interior walls with in order to keep the noise down? I do a lot of my woodworking at night, and really don't want to disturb the neighbors.
Since there will be a great deal of sawdust made out there, Aurelex foam isn't an option, would be a nightmare to clean. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2001
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From: Vancouver Island
I've seen a double layer of drywall used to soundproof a recording studio. Maybe glue the second layer to the first with some resilient construction adhesive. Double-glazed windows, and heavy doors that seal well.
Posting Legend
Joined: Sep 2001
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Use 2x6 lumber for the plates top and bottom and offset stud on 24" centers with 2x4 studs. This is the best sound proofing you can get since there is very little transmission path for the sound vibrations from one side of the wall to the other. Insulate with fiberglass insulation and sheet rock the inside. Put anything you want on the outside. If you use standard 2x4 studs there is not much you can do since the 2x4's will transmit the sound thru the wall. Any carpenter should know about how to construct walls in this manner for sound reduction.
Senior User
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I've seen where strips of thin microfoam (the stuff used for packaging) were stapled to the interior faces of the wall studs. Two or 3 layers made a 1/4" thickness. Then the insulation and drywall were installed and finished as normal. The idea was that the foam acted as a break in the transmission of sound waves hitting the drywall surface. Seemed to work fine.
Posting Guru
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Did this in a house I helped my dad build for a friend, was more for heat insulation, but you could have shot somebody in the kitchen and not heard it in the living room 10 feet away. Have a 2x4 frame and insulate exactly how you said you were going to and hang drywall. Then build another "dummy wall" made of 1x2 no insulation and offset this between the previous studs. No insulation, and drywall this. The airspace between the 1x2 wall will absorb sound and hold in heat or cold to keep the room relatively stable temp wise year round.
Junior User
Joined: Jul 2004
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Lots of ways to slow sound transmission. Staggering the studs, as Torque1st suggested, is a great idea. You can also mount the drywall on resilient channel...
http://www.soundproofing.org/infopages/channel.htm
http://www.soundproofing101.com/soundproofing_3.htm
Do a little google work and you'll turn up a wealth of information.
Good Luck!
http://www.soundproofing.org/infopages/channel.htm
http://www.soundproofing101.com/soundproofing_3.htm
Do a little google work and you'll turn up a wealth of information.
Good Luck!
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Junior User
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From: L O U I S I A N A
Torque1st hit the nail on the head. Use 2x6's for the plates and stuff and stagger the 2x4's. The thinking behind it is that with the inner and outer walls not touching the same studs ...............sound transmissions do not have a direct path to the interior or vice/versa.
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Originally Posted by Torque1st
Use 2x6 lumber for the plates top and bottom and offset stud on 24" centers with 2x4 studs. This is the best sound proofing you can get since there is very little transmission path for the sound vibrations from one side of the wall to the other.
Also, Norm's New Yankee Workshop/Studio has homasote board covering much of the walls and ceiling for sound insulation. I've looked into homasote and one idea is to sandwich a sheet of 1/2" homasote between the studs and the interior sheetrock. Combine this with off-set studs and your shop will be vault-quiet.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Broussard USA
Just buy all the neighbors ear muffs
Would blown in insulation be better than fiberglass? This would seal more of the cracks and such, esp. the expanding foam and it would leave no air space. The air in the space is going to vibrate or resonate causing a boom effect, also it should stop the 2X4's from vibrating and transmitting sound.
Would blown in insulation be better than fiberglass? This would seal more of the cracks and such, esp. the expanding foam and it would leave no air space. The air in the space is going to vibrate or resonate causing a boom effect, also it should stop the 2X4's from vibrating and transmitting sound.
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Joined: Oct 2004
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Typically if you're insulating walls between rooms, like a in an apartment building, you'd construct the wall as described above with a staggered 2x4 wall with insulation inbetween. JJsaw gave some good websites to check out. The wall they show uses a resilant chanel. This helps break the vibration from being transferred from the drywall to the studs. I work for an architecture company and we recently did a 'sound room' for a client in his house. we used standard 1/2 drywall on the outside then a 2x6 stud wall. On the inside we used resilant chanells and two layers of 5/8" gyp. The whole wall was insulated with a rock wool insulation. Bassically trying to add mass to the wall so the vibration was less.
So, I'd recomend just finishing the inside with two layers of gyp attached to the studs with resiliant chanels. If you're wanting to use a pegboard wall to hang tools from use 1x's attached to the wall and then the peg board. The hole will allow some of the sound to go through and 'get trapped' in that cavity.
So, I'd recomend just finishing the inside with two layers of gyp attached to the studs with resiliant chanels. If you're wanting to use a pegboard wall to hang tools from use 1x's attached to the wall and then the peg board. The hole will allow some of the sound to go through and 'get trapped' in that cavity.
New User
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Aberdeen, WA
RE: Soundproofing
A buddy of mine recently finished a couple rooms in his basemnt. He sealed the gaps around the door frames with spray foam. Says it made a noticable difference in the noise level.
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