Engine pops under load/tranny probs.
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 74
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From: Maud, Oklahoma
Engine pops under load/tranny probs.
My 68 Ranger w/360 automatic is having some problems.
When accelerating, or going up any grade, it pops, and seems not to have any power. I've rebuilt the carb, put new points, plugs, condenser,cap,rotor bug, but no help. I'm thinking it is the timing advance on the distributer.??
Also, transmission will not go into forward gears until engine is warmed up. Reverse works fine. fluid level ok, no burnt fluid. If I really rev the motor, first will slowly move the truck, then it will pop into gear, and I have no problems once the tranny kicks in till I shut it down, and it cools off again. I've changed the vacuum modulator, and no improvement has been seen.
Thanks!
John
When accelerating, or going up any grade, it pops, and seems not to have any power. I've rebuilt the carb, put new points, plugs, condenser,cap,rotor bug, but no help. I'm thinking it is the timing advance on the distributer.??
Also, transmission will not go into forward gears until engine is warmed up. Reverse works fine. fluid level ok, no burnt fluid. If I really rev the motor, first will slowly move the truck, then it will pop into gear, and I have no problems once the tranny kicks in till I shut it down, and it cools off again. I've changed the vacuum modulator, and no improvement has been seen.
Thanks!
John
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 976
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From: SOUTH CAROLINA
as for the motor it sounds like you have to much advance in the timing or not enough vacume to the distributor. the tranny sounds like you may either have some junk in the valvebody or varnish in one of the ballchecks. my d***e does the same thing and ive been driving it that way for three years now. cant really say its broke so it aint gittin fixed.
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 74
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From: Maud, Oklahoma
I think I need to add this: Engine seems to work just fine, no popping, missing, when in Park, and revving the engine. Only does this when under load, like when taking off, and when I need to hold speed on a hill.
John.
John.
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Maud, Oklahoma
Was getting ready to adjust the timing, but thought, what the hell, I got this manual for the truck, and I'm going to check the wires to the firing order just for giggles....
Discovered that the #3 and #7 wires were swapped. put them where they belonged, and that cured the problem. Most likely will still need to change the carb, as I still have some minor problems while running down the road, but no more popping.
john
Discovered that the #3 and #7 wires were swapped. put them where they belonged, and that cured the problem. Most likely will still need to change the carb, as I still have some minor problems while running down the road, but no more popping.
john
Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 127
Likes: 29
From: s/e iowa
My truck was doing the same thing when climbing/lugging up a grade, after fussing with it for awhile, i popped the hood at night with the engine running and could see arching between two wires. I put a new set of wires on and now it pulls smooth.
New User
Joined: Sep 2004
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you might also want to rebuild your heads to burn unleaded fuel. these engines were designed for high octane leaded fuel. you may have a burnt valve as well.
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Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 74
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From: Maud, Oklahoma
Well, my car either blew a head gasket, or has a cracked block. So I'm being forced to use the truck to go to work for the time being...(BTW, I HATE plastic radiators!)
Fixed the cross wiring prob, and discovered that #3 cyl is oil fouling, badly. Got one of those anti-fouling devices, hoping that will correct the missing until I can get the car back up on it's feet.
Fixed the cross wiring prob, and discovered that #3 cyl is oil fouling, badly. Got one of those anti-fouling devices, hoping that will correct the missing until I can get the car back up on it's feet.
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