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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Break-in

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Old Sep 22, 2004 | 07:03 PM
  #1  
my 300 six's Avatar
my 300 six
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Question Break-in

I had a machine shop rebuild my 300 six. I have been also told that whatever oil was used by the previous owner, the buyer should stick with it. Now with a fresh rebuild, I can relook at the oil issue. What is the recommend oil to be used in this motor? Should I use a single weight oil or a multi-visconsity oil? Unfortunately I don't own an owners manual. Recommendations would be appreciated to include where I can buy an owners manual for a 82 Ford 150.

My next question is on break-in. I was always told to "baby" the vehicle for the first 250 miles after reboring an engine, before putting it on the freeway but a friend of mine now tells me that is all wrong. He has worked for NAPA for many years and says to go out on the freeway and accelerate from 20 to 60 six times to break in the engine. Then run it like hell. What do you recommend to break-in a fresh rebuilt engine?

Richard
 
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Old Sep 22, 2004 | 07:24 PM
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crazy4Fords
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From: dearborn heights U.S
dont drive it yet, run the truck at 2500 rpms for 15 min, then u can do whatever u want but check and top all the fluids...
 
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Old Sep 22, 2004 | 07:47 PM
  #3  
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big hoss 29
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From: Billings Montana
I agree with crazy, don't drive the truck yet. Run the engine at 2000-2500 rpm's for 15-20 minutes to break in the camshaft, valve springs and seat the valves. Let it cool down and change the oil and run it under 3000 rpm's in normal driving for 1000 miles, change the oil and drive it until 3000 miles and change the oil at regular intervals after that. Then you should be good to go!
 
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Old Sep 22, 2004 | 09:31 PM
  #4  
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Lee Lichterman
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From: Edwards Air Force Base
I might add that since you asked about oil, DO NOT run synthetic until after the break in is over. You want a little scraping going on until the pistons get set and everything "finds it's groove" so to speak.

Agree with "cooking the cam" for the first 20-30 minutes.

When you are finally driving it, there is a tricky part. Under No cirmumstances do you want to "load the engine. In other owrds, no low RPM heavy accelerating. At the same time, when you first start out, you will want to do some heavy accelerating but not at low RPM. In my day, we used to race doing things we called 30 punch, 50 punch etc. You want to be cruising down the highway then act like your passing and strain it a little. This helps the pistons to seat properly. Just watch you tach and don't let it downshift and over rev.

After the first 300 miles or so, it should be safe to go synthetic if you wish.

As for type of oil, I would go multi viscocity unless you know of a reason not to. Too much temperature change to go flat. Even if you lived in Los Angeles, there is a big difference to the oil at 75 degrees and the 190+ after warm up.

Change the oil a LOT at first. Cook the cam, change the oil. First couple trips out, change the oil. Those first few start ups peel off a lot of stuff. Your oil will look like metal flake paint if you wait too long.

Good Luck,

Lee
 
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Old Sep 22, 2004 | 10:25 PM
  #5  
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MontanaFord
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From: Kalispell, MT
big hoss...nice signature quote...lol...good to see a fellow montanan...

MontanaFord
 
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Old Sep 27, 2004 | 10:18 PM
  #6  
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DanMan7
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Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Nice, California
Hey how much did that rebuild cost? Just curious. I'm looking to get my 300 inline 6 rebuilt too.

Dan
 
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Old Sep 29, 2004 | 10:55 AM
  #7  
my 300 six's Avatar
my 300 six
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Dan

Was billed eleven hundred dollars for the rebuild.

Richard
 
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