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Heated Mirrors - How many AMP??? Help PLEASE!!!!!

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Old Sep 22, 2004 | 02:19 PM
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Heated Mirrors - How many AMP??? Help PLEASE!!!!!

Hi Folks-
I just swapped out my standard powered "sport" mirrors for a pair of heated and powered TT mirrors. Thank you to those who posted directions on this site. Made the swap very easy. My question is how many amps do the new heated mirrors draw? My 2000 F250cc lariet was not wired for heated mirrors, so I want to wire the heat to a switch instead of leaving them on all the time. What size fuse should I use? Any special switch needed? Or just a standard rocker switch?
Thanks for all your help.
Steve Bobinski
 
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Old Sep 22, 2004 | 06:00 PM
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When they come on the truck originally, they're on all the time too - nothing different about your wiring. What's wrong with just leaving them on, I don't think they burn out over time like a light bulb?

Duncan
 
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Old Sep 22, 2004 | 09:37 PM
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gotdiesel
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hook them up and use an amp meter to measure amps or if you dont have an amp meter, install an inline fuse. start with a five amp and watch it. if it burns out try a ten and keep going until you reach a fuse that will hold the mirrors. this will also tell you what kind of switch. most are rated for fifteen amps but you can find them rated for more. the alternative to a bigger switch is to use a relay to control the mirrors. most general duty automotive relays are rated at 30 amps and cost about $5. you can get them at any auto parts stores. then just use your switch to control the power to the coil of the relay. hope this helps. good lucK!!!
 
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Old Sep 22, 2004 | 09:46 PM
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Why not try a timed relay to shut them off?
 
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Old Sep 23, 2004 | 09:04 AM
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where do you find a timed relay?
 
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Old Sep 23, 2004 | 11:43 AM
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Thanks everybody for your response. I could wire hot all the time, but I prefer a switch. Seems silly on Ford's part to run these all the time? Do you leave your furnace on in the summer? Lights on all day? Just seems that if its electronic, it must have a limited life span. Plus I like switches, its a control thing! I like the idea of a timer, but am too lazy to wire it in. If I can reach the switch, that's good enough for me. The relay is an awsome idea. Not sure how much draw these pull, the wires are small. But a relay would save the switch. Thanks. Any body know exaclty what the draw is on the heating elements???
Steve
 
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Old Sep 23, 2004 | 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Hoosierdaddy
Seems silly on Ford's part to run these all the time? Do you leave your furnace on in the summer? Lights on all day? Just seems that if its electronic, it must have a limited life span.
These are only on when the truck is running. Just like your PCM, your speedometer, etc. Heck, your radio clock is on *always*!

I believe the technology used has an effectively infinite life span, certainly longer than the average life of the glass before an accident breaks it. It just doesn't seem worth making it far more complicated than stock. The switch and relay you add are far more likely to break from use before the mirror heat sections do.

Duncan
 
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Old Sep 23, 2004 | 07:25 PM
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Use a meter to read the resistance of the heaters, then measure the voltage when the truck is running. Voltage/Resistance = Amps
 
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Old Sep 24, 2004 | 11:03 AM
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Frobozz-Good Point! Maybe I should keep it simple?
Saxon-thanks for the formula. I'll check it out.
Steve
 
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Old Sep 24, 2004 | 03:56 PM
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I added the mirrors to my '00 SD, and I wired the heaters in to the power from the window switch on each door. The biggest advantage to them being on all the time is during the winter, or when it's raining, I can use the remote start from inside the house, and by the time I get in the truck, the mirrors are nice and clear.

Now, if I could just find a rear window with a windshield wiper on it!!!
 
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Old Sep 24, 2004 | 05:38 PM
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Wiring to the switches inside the door seems the simplest method as you said. Maybe the mirrors will hold up being "on" all the time. You guys have me questioning my decisions now!

One more question I forgot about till now - There are two wires coming from the heating element. A ground and a lead I assume. Any idea which is which? Or does it matter? Can I mess them up if I wire them backward?

Thanks again.
Steve
 
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Old Sep 24, 2004 | 06:17 PM
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Never mind! Answered my own question with another search.
Black/white tracer is hot lead to heating element and solid black is ground.
Thanks guys for all your input!
Steve
 
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