Acceleration stalling & backfire????
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,624
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From: Bixby, OK
Dosn't that Chevron 93 octane fuel have detergents in it? We don't have Chevron here, but we have Quicktrip and they're now offering fuel with detergents and cleansers in it, to help clean out your injectors. If this was so, then is it possible that some gunk got loose and put in a bad place? Which is maybe why the sea foam helped a little? Just wondering..
I found a loose vaccum line under my hood a couple months ago, and my performance is hurting a little now, it seems I have no torque.. I looked for places it could've gone but I can't find any. Does any body have pictures of how a 2.9L is supposed to look with all the vaccum hoses in place? The previous owner of my B2 must of liked grey tape, because there's quite a few places that look like they should have line's hooked up to them, and they have duct tape on them clogging them. I was thinking that my B2 didn't have enough power, even though they aren't a powerhouse, but I raced a kid with an 89 B2 (mines a 90) and he didn't have anything special in his, but it felt like he smoked me, so I'm thinking that the unhooked vaccums are hurting performance levels, and also I should be getting about 18 mpg and I'm getting about 14 maybe this is a cause of this too? Sorry, I didn't want to make a seperate thread about something simple.
I found a loose vaccum line under my hood a couple months ago, and my performance is hurting a little now, it seems I have no torque.. I looked for places it could've gone but I can't find any. Does any body have pictures of how a 2.9L is supposed to look with all the vaccum hoses in place? The previous owner of my B2 must of liked grey tape, because there's quite a few places that look like they should have line's hooked up to them, and they have duct tape on them clogging them. I was thinking that my B2 didn't have enough power, even though they aren't a powerhouse, but I raced a kid with an 89 B2 (mines a 90) and he didn't have anything special in his, but it felt like he smoked me, so I'm thinking that the unhooked vaccums are hurting performance levels, and also I should be getting about 18 mpg and I'm getting about 14 maybe this is a cause of this too? Sorry, I didn't want to make a seperate thread about something simple.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2004
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From: Hephzibah, GA
Also, the idle is now about 1300 RPM's in Park and about 1050 RPM's in Drive. Not sure what caused that, but then again I'm not sure about most things involving this B2....except I really want to get it running right.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,562
Likes: 4
From: South Jersey
First thing is to make sure you have normal vacuum (test it) and no vacuum leaks. When you disconnect the IAC it should stall or get a rpm drop, if it's not doing this someone messed with the throttle stop or you have a vacuum leak.
Then run the pinpoint tests, I can email them to you if you need them.
13 = IAC
72 = MAP
73 = TPS
74 = BOO, did you hit the brakes when prompted?
41 = O2, don't worry about a continuous code until you clear all the KOER codes.
Then run the pinpoint tests, I can email them to you if you need them.
13 = IAC
72 = MAP
73 = TPS
74 = BOO, did you hit the brakes when prompted?
41 = O2, don't worry about a continuous code until you clear all the KOER codes.
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Joined: May 2004
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From: Hephzibah, GA
Vacume is fine. Steady pressure.
When the IAC is disconnected it idles down and starts to stall. Also tested the connector, it's fine.
Tested the connector for the TPS, is is fine. Not sure how to test the Sensor itself though. I think I'm just going to replace this one as the one I have has some wear (chips) in it.
MAP Sensor vacume disconnected also idles it down, becomes erratic and trys to stall. I didn't pull the electrical loose to test it.
And no, I didn't hit the brakes at prompt, didn't know I was supposed to until afterwards.
I'll test again tomorrow and see how it goes.
When the IAC is disconnected it idles down and starts to stall. Also tested the connector, it's fine.
Tested the connector for the TPS, is is fine. Not sure how to test the Sensor itself though. I think I'm just going to replace this one as the one I have has some wear (chips) in it.
MAP Sensor vacume disconnected also idles it down, becomes erratic and trys to stall. I didn't pull the electrical loose to test it.
And no, I didn't hit the brakes at prompt, didn't know I was supposed to until afterwards.
I'll test again tomorrow and see how it goes.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: UT
KOER 72 & 73 both point to operator error . I would almost put money down that you missed the goose test altogether, or did it at the wrong time.
74, like Ken said, probably means you missed pressing the brake jsut afiter engine id output.
Teh 13 is probably symptomatic, rather than diagnostic. Check teh IAC carefully to see if it's dirty or what not. If you don't find aproblem, then go on to the CM 41
CM41 tells us that the O2 sensor idicated lean at some point during operation. The fact taht you didn't get a KOER 41 suggests that whatever fault is creating teh 41 is intermittent. After checking teh IAC and making sure to run teh KOER test correctly, clear the CM codes (disconnect jumper wire during KOEO/CM code output), then drive it and see under what conditions the 41 comes back. also be sure to check the wiring from the sensor to the computer for any obvious faults.
74, like Ken said, probably means you missed pressing the brake jsut afiter engine id output.
Teh 13 is probably symptomatic, rather than diagnostic. Check teh IAC carefully to see if it's dirty or what not. If you don't find aproblem, then go on to the CM 41
CM41 tells us that the O2 sensor idicated lean at some point during operation. The fact taht you didn't get a KOER 41 suggests that whatever fault is creating teh 41 is intermittent. After checking teh IAC and making sure to run teh KOER test correctly, clear the CM codes (disconnect jumper wire during KOEO/CM code output), then drive it and see under what conditions the 41 comes back. also be sure to check the wiring from the sensor to the computer for any obvious faults.
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Senior User
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From: Hephzibah, GA
I "goosed" it, but it's possible I did it at the wrong time. I saw the prompt and thought I did it correctly but will try again tomorrow. And as I already said, I did not apply the brakes, but will be sure to do that tomorrow too.
I pulled the IAC off a couple days ago and cleaned it thoroughly. It looks clean as new. I also checked the connection and it is good, at least when I tested it.
I'll run the codes again tomorrow (weather permitting) and see what happens.
Just want to say THANKS to all of you for your help. I never was really good with vehicles, but I have learned more on this site in the last 4 months then I ever knew before.
I pulled the IAC off a couple days ago and cleaned it thoroughly. It looks clean as new. I also checked the connection and it is good, at least when I tested it.
I'll run the codes again tomorrow (weather permitting) and see what happens.
Just want to say THANKS to all of you for your help. I never was really good with vehicles, but I have learned more on this site in the last 4 months then I ever knew before.
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Senior User
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From: Hephzibah, GA
I pulled the IAC off and cleaned it this morning. Mine has the 2 screws that attach the solenoid to the valve so I disconnected them and cleaned both parts really well. Then I pulled the codes again, 3 times even. Here they are.....
KOEO - 11
Memory - 63
KOER - 98 "Hard Fault Present" .....(and 63 but only on the first of three tests)
My Check Engine light is still on since yesterday and my Charging/Alt light flickers on/off, but has been since I've had it. The battery is fully charged and a volt-meter shows 15.0 volts with the motor running and 12.0 with it off. Bad battery cable maybe? The Neg cable looks like it could be replaced but if that isn't the problem I'd just as soon leave it alone.
Ideas?
KOEO - 11
Memory - 63
KOER - 98 "Hard Fault Present" .....(and 63 but only on the first of three tests)
My Check Engine light is still on since yesterday and my Charging/Alt light flickers on/off, but has been since I've had it. The battery is fully charged and a volt-meter shows 15.0 volts with the motor running and 12.0 with it off. Bad battery cable maybe? The Neg cable looks like it could be replaced but if that isn't the problem I'd just as soon leave it alone.
Ideas?
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Senior User
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From: Hephzibah, GA
Ok.....here's an update.
I pulled the TPS off and started checking the sensor and the harness connecter. The sensor tested fine, once I reread how to check it like 10 times.
The harness connecter checked fine at first but I started looking at it realy close and discovered that the C clip didn't look right. I messed with it a little and the wire popped right out. I reattached it, plugged it back into the TPS, and started it up. The idle seemed more calm and even and was at about 1150 RPM's. I drove it around the block (900 RPM's in Drive) and it drove better then it did when I first got it.....better accereration, response, and power. The Check Engine light is still on and the Charging/Alt light continues it's on/off thing. Also, the ABS light is on now....have no idea about that one.
I'll pull the codes again when the storm passes over, so probably tomorrow.
I pulled the TPS off and started checking the sensor and the harness connecter. The sensor tested fine, once I reread how to check it like 10 times.
The harness connecter checked fine at first but I started looking at it realy close and discovered that the C clip didn't look right. I messed with it a little and the wire popped right out. I reattached it, plugged it back into the TPS, and started it up. The idle seemed more calm and even and was at about 1150 RPM's. I drove it around the block (900 RPM's in Drive) and it drove better then it did when I first got it.....better accereration, response, and power. The Check Engine light is still on and the Charging/Alt light continues it's on/off thing. Also, the ABS light is on now....have no idea about that one.
I'll pull the codes again when the storm passes over, so probably tomorrow.
Last edited by Catfish369; Sep 27, 2004 at 02:23 PM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,562
Likes: 4
From: South Jersey
Let us know what codes you get after the rain.
Check the belt tension and electrical connections for the alt but it might be on its way out.
I have the procedure for pulling the RABS codes in the tech info thread, us the one for older trucks.
Check the belt tension and electrical connections for the alt but it might be on its way out.
I have the procedure for pulling the RABS codes in the tech info thread, us the one for older trucks.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2004
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From: Hephzibah, GA
I checked, rechecked, and re-rechecked the TPS at KOEO with a voltmeter.
- Input = 4.82 volts
- Closed throttle = .41 volts
- WOT = .35 volts
The TPS on my B2 has to be set in place and turned slightly clockwise to be secured on. Doing it this way resulted in almost 4.5 volts at closed throttle and made the engine continue to rev up until I turned the engine off......over 5000.
I'll be replacing the TPS. I'm not going to pull the codes again until then.
The RPM's are high at about 1500 to 1600 in Park and about 1000 to 1100 in Drive, the RABS and the CEL are on but at least it is drivable until I get the new sensor.
Thanks everyone.
- Input = 4.82 volts
- Closed throttle = .41 volts
- WOT = .35 volts
The TPS on my B2 has to be set in place and turned slightly clockwise to be secured on. Doing it this way resulted in almost 4.5 volts at closed throttle and made the engine continue to rev up until I turned the engine off......over 5000.
I'll be replacing the TPS. I'm not going to pull the codes again until then.
The RPM's are high at about 1500 to 1600 in Park and about 1000 to 1100 in Drive, the RABS and the CEL are on but at least it is drivable until I get the new sensor.
Thanks everyone.
New User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 20
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From: Maryland
You mentioned battery cables. If you have any doubt whatsoever, replace them. I had a similar problem with an '86 and a new positive battery cable did wonders. Dirty power really screws with your computer.
7y3
7y3
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Joined: Sep 2004
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From: WNC
This happened to me in my 86 a few weeks ago...
Turns out, I was just low on gas, and that some of that "Gas tank grudge" had just worked it's way into my engine.
I filled the tank with some Premium gas, and I was good to go.
Turns out, I was just low on gas, and that some of that "Gas tank grudge" had just worked it's way into my engine.
I filled the tank with some Premium gas, and I was good to go.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2004
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From: Hephzibah, GA
It took me a few days, but I finally replaced the TPS this evening. It only needed a VERY slight clockwise rotation to align the screw holes. Keep your old gasket or make a new one.....no new one with he new TPS.
No more backfiring, stalling, sputtering, erratic shifting, and the CEL and the RABS lights are now out.
Now there's more power, faster and more responsive acceleration, the cruise works great again, and the idle is as smooth as silk at 800 to 850 RPM's in Park.
KOEO - 11
Con Mem - 11
KOER - 11
Thanks everyone!!
No more backfiring, stalling, sputtering, erratic shifting, and the CEL and the RABS lights are now out.
Now there's more power, faster and more responsive acceleration, the cruise works great again, and the idle is as smooth as silk at 800 to 850 RPM's in Park.
KOEO - 11
Con Mem - 11
KOER - 11
Thanks everyone!!
Last edited by Catfish369; Oct 7, 2004 at 10:17 PM.
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