what a deal?
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what a deal?
i stumbled upon a 79 f250 4x4 with a fairly excelent body for 1300 bucks the only thing that scares me is the I-6 that hasent been ran in over a year the truck seems to be in excelent shape but i`ve always been a 400 guy any body with a little strait6 knowledge got some advice
Last edited by young 79er; Sep 20, 2004 at 10:43 PM. Reason: forgot somthing
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Yuba City, Ca
forget the 351w and put in a 400 if you're gonna do a swap. since your used to these motors, or a 351M. the 351W is a good motor but your used to the old style so.
1978 F-250 Ranger Explorer 4x4
351M, C6, Np205, D44, D60LS 4.10
Drive It Like You Stole It!!!
1978 F-250 Ranger Explorer 4x4
351M, C6, Np205, D44, D60LS 4.10
Drive It Like You Stole It!!!
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Whats next?
I dont exactly have the means to do the swap right yet as I will be deploying to iraq soon I`ve heard these engines are very reliable but have absolutely no experience this will be my third 79 and they have all had the 351m/400`s what will be involved in a swap and could i count on this old sixer to get me around for awhile?
Posting Guru
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The inline 6 will more than reliably get you around, they have been known to run without oil for hundreds of miles, run on 4 cylinders and act like everything is fine, pull more than most v-8s and ask for more, I have yet to see a 300 die from abuse, I have seen one die from salt water covering it for 2 days. Gets the best gas milage, and gives you more low end power than an 8
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what if
the engine supposedly only has 69000 origional miles on it but has been sitting for a couple years could i still depend on it after an oil change and a radiator flush?
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Nashville
When I bought my '83 van from my uncle 3 years ago it had just 48K on the clock...BUT...it had only been run a few times in the previous 5-6 years. Started right up, but every last hose/ belt/ gasket/ wire under the hood was dead from old age. After replacing all the rotten rubber bits the 300 ran like a top. Have put 25K miles on it the past 3 years and it has been super reliable. Only real issue was/ is a rear main seal leak which is now bad enough to require some attention.
Before turning over a long inactive engine, best bet is to pull all the spark plugs and deposit a good dose of oil into each cylinder. Let sit for a while, then crank it several times to lube the bores and get some oil in the bearings. As long as none of the pistons have seized [doubtful], it should turn over easily as there's no compression. Reinstall the plugs, pour in some gas and fire her up. Just change the oil and filter frequently the first few thousand miles. A lot of rust and crud will probably be working lose once it's back on the road a bit. Replace any belts/ hoses that look questionable, and don't forget to change the tranny fluid too.
Before turning over a long inactive engine, best bet is to pull all the spark plugs and deposit a good dose of oil into each cylinder. Let sit for a while, then crank it several times to lube the bores and get some oil in the bearings. As long as none of the pistons have seized [doubtful], it should turn over easily as there's no compression. Reinstall the plugs, pour in some gas and fire her up. Just change the oil and filter frequently the first few thousand miles. A lot of rust and crud will probably be working lose once it's back on the road a bit. Replace any belts/ hoses that look questionable, and don't forget to change the tranny fluid too.
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Good Deal?
I BOUGHT MY F150 FOR $800! IT IS A XL (TO POWER AND TILT 
) IT DIDNT HAVE 3RD GEAR WHEN I GOT IT, ANOTHER $800 AND A NEW TRANNY TOOK CAR OF THAT. A/C BLOWS COLD AND IT RUNS GREAT...BLUE BOOK IS WELL OVER $4800! NOW THAT IS A DEAL
) IT DIDNT HAVE 3RD GEAR WHEN I GOT IT, ANOTHER $800 AND A NEW TRANNY TOOK CAR OF THAT. A/C BLOWS COLD AND IT RUNS GREAT...BLUE BOOK IS WELL OVER $4800! NOW THAT IS A DEAL
Senior User
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HAHA i paid frigged 6K for my 93 f150 XL, had the running boards, it was a 4x4, and some other optional stuff, but other than that yea, but i would pay it again, i love that truck. As for the motor, it should be fine, take all the precautions you would with any other motor, but for the most part, the 300 will take alot more abuse than other motors, but that doesnt mean you need to subject it to extra wear and tear because you didnt check everything before you cranked it. If you wanna swap, ill buy your motor, but not for alot lol. Where ya live? Make sure you take the precautions to store it if your going to iraq, draining certain things and such, im not much into it, but you can probably find out just by searching google for vehichle storage preparation or something. Rear main seal, at least on my 93 EFI, was no prob, we changed it when changing the clutch. May sound a little iffy, but what you do is take 2 screws, and screw then through a small 1 X 1 or something, and then into the old rear main, then twist and pull, it will pop right out, YES THIS IS HOW YOUR SUPPOSED TO DO IT, read the repair manuals you can buy at any neihborhood parts store, then rub oil on then new one and pop it in, good as new, i guess its a little harder if you werent planning on dropping the tranny.
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hey everybody i just got back from almost a month of training in california and i'm ready to start tinkerin with the ol ford again I came up with a few problems before i left though like the stud that holds the exhaust rocker on the no.3 cylinder pushed out and of course i did what any cheap guy shouldnt i jammed a couple nuts on top of the stud and hammered it back in but its pullin loose again and then theres my carb i think i'm just gonna go brand new with that but my deployment to iraq keeps creepin closer and my wife is tryin to talk me into sellin it but she wont get far there i already sold one for and she knows it aint gonna happen again but thats whats up with my truck right know ,any 
suggestions welcome though
suggestions welcome though
Last edited by young 79er; Dec 1, 2004 at 04:34 PM. Reason: forgot stuff