Was just told by the dealer that the rotors on my 97 need to be replaced. I had them turned at 20,000, replaced at 40,000, turned at 57,000, now has 87,000. They say they are too rusty and need replaced. I am not particularly tough on the vehicle, in fact I'd say quite gentle. What do you think? Take it to an independent and see what they say? What kind of miles do you get on your brakes/rotors?

 

your rotors are worn out, replace them. but this time get quality rotors and make darn sure to replace pads after 20k... this will solve the rotor turn problem.

 

rotors can last between 20-80k ... mine have been replaced 3 times since 1993 and I have 180k..... it is all in where you drive and live as well as how you drive... salt and snow and other goodies help break them down... no china rotors for me...

 

I would not turn any rotors made for the Aerostar. They are barely sufficient to begin with, and turning them is removing materials, so they will have even less heat capacity, so they will warp more easily. If the brakes don't shudder when you use them, the rotors are probably OK. If they do shudder as you use them, they probably should be replaced. When you replace the rotors, make sure you get the versions made for 1992 and later vans. They have directional cooling vents, so they are left/right specific. THey work better than earlier versions.

 

Also do not over torque your lug nuts. They warp easy if you tighten them wrong.

 

I'm on my 3rd set of rotors in 110k miles.

IMO, the front brakes in these things are barely adequate at their best. The last set I put on have the directional venting, we'll see if they are any better.

In defense of the Aero, though, every vehicle I've owned with front discs has needed more frequent brake maintenance than the drum brake vehicles I've had prior to that. I'll take the improved braking of discs in exchange for more upkeep any day.

 

Recurring rotor problems are either, as Muffinman stated, improper lug nut torque or sticking caliper slides and usually a combination of both. I used have the same problem. Changing pads does no good if the caliper is sticking on the slides, it just eats up the pads while still causing the rotor to overheat which leads to warpage. Rotors can be turned as long as the minimal thickness is not exceeded, which is usually only one or two turnings at most. Cheap rotors work just as well as the more expensive brands. My current rotors were inexpensive ones and have now lasted well over 75,000 miles. Same with pads. I used to go through them regularly and have heavy brake pad dust buildup on the front wheels. Now, an average priced set of Raybestos pads last around 50,000+ miles. The key to longevity is clean caliper slides. You need to wire brush those slides on the spindle arm and the corresponding one the caliper. Lubricate the slides with the correct grease during reassembly and your brakes will work better and last longer.

Also, premature front pad wear is accelerated if the rear brakes are out of adjustment. The rears are supposed to be self adjusting but many older models are found to be way out of adjustment. The self adjusting mechanism either fails to operate properly, is installed incorrectly during brake work or is damaged by turning the star wheel adjuster and not releasing the self adjuster cam at the same time. Since it is difficult to release the adjuster cam and turn the star wheel at the same time, most people don't bother doing it. The end result is the star wheel chews a notch in the adjuster cam which makes it impossible for the cam to keep the rear shoes adjusted properly. If you have a soft, soggy brake pedal, check the adjustment on the rear shoes.

 

Fellas
Most rotors are not to be turned. It costs 20$ to turn them and 50-70$ to replace. I have taken my van for brake inspections to TrueCentre here in Canada for yrs. Yes I do my own work, but for 90$ I get premium parts and a lifetime warr.. The old fell that has owned the shop for as long as I have been there. Has always stated NOT to turn rotors or drums. In the old days, rotors and drums were large and wide. This got rid of heat, now. Even new ones are thin. I bought a pr of Cdn Racing rotors, off a Ranger for my last Aero. They are twice as thick and are vented. The next brake job I do will have them. I have 110K on mine and have replaced them once. My plan for in the spring is to install rear Discs off a Explorer. 150$ used is cheap plus 175$ for new rotors. Not bad for the custom systems are 1200$ and ford's system is 800$.

 

how much difference is there between ours and the ranger's? i mean rangers were designed to tow a load, right? ive never seen ranger rotors so i dont know if theyre beefier or not, any ideas for a swap? also anyone hear of a rear disc conversion? just a thought, im drum hater!

 

Rear disk require a whole rear end replacement if you want it cheap from a yard.

The other way is Brembo and they are not cheap for a complete conversion.

 

There are a few years during which the Rangers used the same brake pasts as the Aerostar, and I think front rotors were one of the same parts.

If you want to install rear disks, you would need some form of replacement backing plates on which to mount the calipers. You can not use the rear end from an Explorer, unless you're ready to change the rear suspension of your Aerostar as well. The rear axle housing of an Aerostar is unique, and quite different from the Explorers'.

 

Muffinman
You can get the whole setup for Ford. Here in Canada for 800$. Iknow one fellas that has used the Explorer setup. ie backing plates, calipers.

 

Not only do you need a backing plate, You also will need the Emergency brake cable setup as well.

 

Muffinman
I know, the Ex's setup is the same as Ford sells as a drum replacement. The only extra is for new rotors and a park brake bracket. Which I will be making myself. The ABS, lines, back plates, rotor slides etc are bolt on. Note only if you have the 8.8 or 9 in rear. The 7 inch is the same but the bolt holes for the plates are different on some.
I have seen a few and have a friend who is a Military Veh Tech that has done this mod. I am also looking at the buying the larger rotors again.

 

I have the 8.8 limit slip on mine.

Are all the Ex's usable? I would do this if I could get all the parts off a Yard for cheap.

I can have the shock and coil mounts cut off and welded on to the new one with no problem, If I had too.