Broken timing magnet
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Broken timing magnet
I'm new to the forums here. I did a search and couldn't find this exact problem, and please dont laugh or yell...
My dad's 94 Ranger's timing belt broke and we were replacing it. Well, that single bolt holding the crank shaft pully (well, not the pully, we got that off with the 4 bolts... so I hope you know what I'm talking about, tha dampner?) would NOT COME OFF. AT ALL. So... we bent the lip that was keeping us from just slipping the belt on the crank. All was going good until, in the poroccess of bending it back into shape we heard a crunch... We then found a small magnet.
So... any suggestions???
My dad's 94 Ranger's timing belt broke and we were replacing it. Well, that single bolt holding the crank shaft pully (well, not the pully, we got that off with the 4 bolts... so I hope you know what I'm talking about, tha dampner?) would NOT COME OFF. AT ALL. So... we bent the lip that was keeping us from just slipping the belt on the crank. All was going good until, in the poroccess of bending it back into shape we heard a crunch... We then found a small magnet.
So... any suggestions???
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i did that with mine the first time i did the belt. you will need to get a new hub assembly/dampner(is it a cast iron piece with the harmonic balancer on the back of it? the crank pulley bolts up to the cast iron piece?) from the dealership(you can only get it at the dealership), about $50. and the magnet broke off the middle of the crankshaft position sensor so you will need to get a new one from advance auto for about $100 (the sensor costs a lot more at the dealership).
if you haven't gotten the bolt off yet you need to. pull the radiator and get an impact wrench on it to torque it off. or use a breaker bar and a lot of elbow grease the break it loose. and put some penetrating oil on it overnight if need be.
if you haven't gotten the bolt off yet you need to. pull the radiator and get an impact wrench on it to torque it off. or use a breaker bar and a lot of elbow grease the break it loose. and put some penetrating oil on it overnight if need be.
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We think we can salvage the dampner, even though its ugly, it spins without touching anything (yeah, the crank timing pulley is attached to it by a single bolt, and the serpentine pully is attached to the other side by four bolts).
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=238325
This post says the little magnet thing is $20
How did you get the bolt off without simply turning the engine?
Thanks
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=238325
This post says the little magnet thing is $20
How did you get the bolt off without simply turning the engine?
Thanks
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the crank sensor probably is $20 at a salvage yard. it needs to be positioned with a special tool. a new sensor for advanced comes with that tool.
if the damper is cast iron then put a pipe wrench on it and breaking the bolt free (requires 2 people) or put an impact wrench on it and hit the reverse for a split second, a couple of times. that should torque it free.
if the damper is cast iron then put a pipe wrench on it and breaking the bolt free (requires 2 people) or put an impact wrench on it and hit the reverse for a split second, a couple of times. that should torque it free.
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We tried the pipe wrench, it kept slipping (might need a better pipe wrench), we even braced a flat part of the dampner against the ground and that just ended up lifting the engine.
the sensor did't look that hard to replace, like a few bolts, or is the positioning need to be more precise? (just so we're sure we're talking about the same thing: it has 2 magnets that two things of metal on the dampner pass between)
the sensor did't look that hard to replace, like a few bolts, or is the positioning need to be more precise? (just so we're sure we're talking about the same thing: it has 2 magnets that two things of metal on the dampner pass between)
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Originally Posted by ianguy
We tried the pipe wrench, it kept slipping (might need a better pipe wrench), we even braced a flat part of the dampner against the ground and that just ended up lifting the engine.
the sensor did't look that hard to replace, like a few bolts, or is the positioning need to be more precise? (just so we're sure we're talking about the same thing: it has 2 magnets that two things of metal on the dampner pass between)
the sensor did't look that hard to replace, like a few bolts, or is the positioning need to be more precise? (just so we're sure we're talking about the same thing: it has 2 magnets that two things of metal on the dampner pass between)
the sensor is pretty easy to replace. it is held on by two 5.5 mm bolts. your best bet is buying a new sensor that has the tool so you dont accidently break it. the "two thing of metal" are the inner and outer vanes of the harmonic balancer, which pass through two slots on the crank sensor. the positioning tool sets the magnet to run between the two vanes of the harmonic balancer without hitting anything. thats why it would be a good idea to get a new dampner and not try to bend the harmonic balancer on the old one to work.
