F-100 Carb problems.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,691
Likes: 6
F-100 Carb problems.
I have a 72 F-100 with a 390 and a C6 trans and dual exhaust. I've brought it halfway back from the dead. I bought the truck from someone who didn't maintain it very well. It came with a rebuilt Motorcraft 2100 type carb on it so its not stock. I've rebuilt the carb but I think it may be the wrong model of 2100. With the downshift linkage arm to the trans conntected to the throttle linkage, the throttle is only allowed to open a little over halfway. I can get full throttle by disconnecting the downshift linkage. Backing the downshift linkage adjusting screw all the way out doesn't help any either. The piece of the throttle linkage that the downshift adjusting screw hits is bent from someone pressing down hard on the gas pedal and the downshift linkage not allowing it to move all the way. Can anyone help me figure out which model of the 2100 I should have on this beast? I'm thinking that I have a carb for some Ford passenger car and not a truck carb. It's the downshift linkage attachment on the throttle linkage that I think is wrong. One more thing, when I start it up on a cold morning it runs smoothly for about 10-15 seconds and then starts to run rough and will die unless I get on the gas. When I give it gas it smokes like crazy out of the drivers side exhaust only until the engine warms up. I don't have this problem when it's been sitting but the weather is warm. It starts fine and runs fine. Is there any chance I'm sucking trans fluid into somewhere and burning it?
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,691
Likes: 6
#1 - Is the detent rod the one attached to the gas pedal linkage or the downshift arm and where can I get the correct one?
#2 - Feathing it works for a little bit but its almost like I have to hold it open to blow out all the (I think) oil that I'm burning. It'll then run smoothly for a little bit and then I have to blow it all out again. It does this til it warms up and it's completely possible that it's still burning gunk while it warms up but it just seems smoother. I checked again this morning and I was blowing out some oily substance out of both sides of the exhaust. You know, I'm not exactly sure it's not engine oil. I'll do a compression test this evening. When I bought the truck it smoked a ton and the truck wouldn't pass our CO emissions test. The Carbon Monoxide levels were OK but visible smoke is a reason for failure. I replaced the valve stem seals and the smoke went away. That was 5 years ago. I didn't drive it all since then until this summer when my daughter became of driving age. I've been working on bringing it back for the past 8 weeks. So smoke again surprises me. Thanks for your response.
#2 - Feathing it works for a little bit but its almost like I have to hold it open to blow out all the (I think) oil that I'm burning. It'll then run smoothly for a little bit and then I have to blow it all out again. It does this til it warms up and it's completely possible that it's still burning gunk while it warms up but it just seems smoother. I checked again this morning and I was blowing out some oily substance out of both sides of the exhaust. You know, I'm not exactly sure it's not engine oil. I'll do a compression test this evening. When I bought the truck it smoked a ton and the truck wouldn't pass our CO emissions test. The Carbon Monoxide levels were OK but visible smoke is a reason for failure. I replaced the valve stem seals and the smoke went away. That was 5 years ago. I didn't drive it all since then until this summer when my daughter became of driving age. I've been working on bringing it back for the past 8 weeks. So smoke again surprises me. Thanks for your response.
