Reading codes with a meter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: va
Reading codes with a meter
Where do you connect the jumper wire from the Self Test In plug? At www.fuelinjection.com it says to the frame but the manual says to the Signal return number 2 pin on the DLC connector. Set key to RUN does that mean start the truck? I had the jumper wire from the sti to the frame and turned the key to on but not starting the truck and it blew the fuse on the meter. Meter set to X10 as in a complete loop, its the setting were i touch the two leads together and the needle goes to the end. Help thanks
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,557
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From: Concord, NC
Jump between the STI and the Signal return - just a wire or paperclip. The volt meter should be connected between the positive battery terminal and the STO in the big DLC connector. Turn the key to run, but don't start the truck - this is the Key On Engine Off test or KOEO. After this test, you can go through the procedure for the KOER (key on engine running) test - there are specific actions you have to take during the engine running test, so be sure to read in the repair manual for the correct steps.
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Fleet Mechanic
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From: va
Set meter up to read codes?
[QUOTE=EPNCSU2006]Jump between the STI and the Signal return - just a wire or paperclip. The volt meter should be connected between the positive battery terminal and the STO in the big DLC connector. Turn the key to run, but don't start the truck - this is the Key On Engine Off test or KOEO. [QUOTE]
Thanks, i did just like you said , its the same as the manual by the way. I set my anologe volt meter to 10DCV or 10 direct current volts, and it pegs to the end and wont move. My next setting is 250 volts which also didn't move once it went up alittle. What do i set my meter to? Thanks guys
Thanks, i did just like you said , its the same as the manual by the way. I set my anologe volt meter to 10DCV or 10 direct current volts, and it pegs to the end and wont move. My next setting is 250 volts which also didn't move once it went up alittle. What do i set my meter to? Thanks guys
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,557
Likes: 44
From: Concord, NC
You really need a meter with about a 20V range (unless you can detect a good amount of movement on the 250V scale). It will go to 12V when you hook up the volt meter, and if the jumper is correct, it should drop right down to 0 when you turn the key on. It should then start testing the sensors and then blink out an engine code and then blink out codes - blink meaning sweep from 0 to 12V and back to zero is one blink.
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Fleet Mechanic
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From: va
As far as i can tell there is no check engine light on a 1987 f150. I think ill go pick up a code reader. There is no one where i live that checks the codes for free.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,557
Likes: 44
From: Concord, NC
There is no check engine light on an '87, you are right. A small bulb will work just fine as long as it doesn't pull too many amps. A 194 bulb should be fine - I believe that's what's in the dash. It doesn't matter what voltage scale is, just as long as you can see the needle sweep. If you can see it move on the 250V scale, that would be fine too. I'm just worried you won't be able to see the needle move, but do try it before you go buy a scanner.
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Fleet Mechanic
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From: va
light doesn't blink just stays on
I'm 100% sure its hookup correctly. I tried using a bulb, it stayed on all the time. It may of blinked twice which is code 11 but i cant get to blink anymore. I tried removing the key, and pulling the wires off still the light just stays on. Any ideas ?
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,557
Likes: 44
From: Concord, NC
It should stay lit constantly until you turn the key to 'run.' It should then go off, then flash the engine code, then maybe flicker with the fast codes, and then start blinking the codes. It will turn off after the test is complete - it cycles through the live codes twice, then blinks once (separator pulse) then goes through the memory codes twice, then goes off until you turn the key off. Are you sure you aren't hooking the light between the positive and the signal return?