OK, so i bought this 98' 5 speed 2.5L ranger at an auction in Albany. I get it home and i replaced all the seals, barons, and gears in the transmission because it is making this "whining" noise whenever i shift and accelerate, or whenever i downshift and decelerate. When i get the truck back it is still making this ANNOYING noise.
I think it is the transmission, because whenever i push the clutch in the noise stops. It sound like it is winding up or down all the time. I hope someone can help, i dont know how much longer i can stand it.

 

I'm thinking the noise is from the rear.

 

If the noise was from the rear what would it be?

 

Not the power steering pump is it?

 

I also would be suspicious of the rear. Has the diff. oil ever been changed?

 

If it stops when you push the clutch in with the vehicle at rest, sounds like it could be the clutch throw out bearing.

If it's noisey while drifting in Nuetral, then suspect the tranny, differential, or rear axle wheel bearings. If it's noisey under load, maybe the differential thrust bearing.

Just some thoughts from the peanut gallery.

 

The noise if definatly from the rear. I just changed all the transmission parts. Sounds like the right side. When i push the clutch in it stops (when im moving). No noise in neutral.

 

Ok Quicksilver, so the commotion is in the rear end, right side, only under load.

I'll have to differ to those who know their rear ends from a hole in the ground, cause pawpaw doesn't. lol

Will be interesting to see whats finally found as the problems root cause.

 

Here's what Ford has to say about noise....

Axle Noise

Note:
Before disassembling the axle to diagnose and correct gear noise, eliminate the tires, exhaust, trim items, roof racks, axle shafts (4234) and wheel bearings as possible causes. Follow diagnostic procedures in «Section 100-04».

The noises described as follows usually have specific causes that can be diagnosed by observation as the unit is disassembled. The initial clues are the type of noise heard during the road test.

Gear Howl and Whine

Howling or whining of the ring gear and pinion is due to an incorrect gear pattern, gear damage or incorrect bearing preload.


Bearing Whine

Bearing whine is a high-pitched sound similar to a whistle. It is usually caused by worn/damaged pinion bearings, which are operating at driveshaft speed. Bearing noise occurs at all driving speeds. This distinguishes it from gear whine which usually comes and goes as speed changes.

As noted, pinion bearings make a high-pitched, whistling noise, usually at all speeds. If however there is only one pinion bearing that is worn/damaged, the noise may vary in different driving phases. Pinion bearings must not be replaced unless they are scored or damaged or there is a specific pinion bearing noise. A worn/damaged bearing will normally be obvious at disassembly. Examine the large end of the rollers for wear. If the pinion bearings original blend radius has worn to a sharp edge, the pinion bearing must be replaced.

Note:
A low-pitched rumble normally associated with a worn/damaged wheel bearing can be caused by the exterior luggage rack or tires.

A wheel bearing noise can be mistaken for a pinion bearing noise. On 4x2 vehicles, check the wheel bearing for a spalled cup, and spalled/damaged rollers. Install a new wheel bearing if any of these concerns are detected.



If the wheel bearing is damaged, the roller surface on the axle shaft may also be damaged. Install a new axle shaft if any damage is detected.



On 4x4 vehicles, check the wheel bearing for rotating smoothness and end play. Install a new component as required.


Chuckle

Chuckle that occurs on the coast driving phase is usually caused by excessive clearance between the differential gear hub and the differential case bore.

Damage to a gear tooth on the coast side can cause a noise identical to a chuckle. A very small tooth nick or ridge on the edge of a tooth can cause the noise.

Clean the gear tooth nick or ridge with a small grinding wheel. If the damaged area is larger than 3.2 mm (1/8 inch), replace the gearset.

To check the ring gear and pinion, remove as much lubricant as possible from the gears with clean solvent. Wipe the gears dry or blow them dry with compressed air. Look for scored or damaged teeth. Also look for cracks or other damage.

If either gear is scored or damaged badly, the ring gear and pinion must be replaced.



If metal has broken loose, the axle housing must be cleaned to remove particles that will cause damage. At this time, any other damaged parts in the axle housing must also be replaced.


Knock

Knock, which can occur on all driving phases, has several causes including damaged teeth or gearset.



In most cases, one of the following conditions will occur:

1. A gear tooth damaged on the drive side is a common cause of the knock. This can usually be corrected by grinding the damaged area.



2. Note:
Measure the end play with a Dial Indicator with Bracketry and not by feel.

Knock is also caused by excessive end play in the axle shafts. Up to 0.762 mm (0.030 inch) is allowed in semi-float axles. The frequency of the knock will be less because the axle shaft speed is slower than the driveshaft.


Clunk

Clunk is a metallic noise heard when the automatic transmission is engaged in REVERSE or DRIVE. The noise may also occur when throttle is applied or released. It is caused by backlash somewhere in the driveline or loose suspension components; it is felt or heard in the axle. Refer to Total Backlash Check in this section.

Additionally, clunk may be heard upon initial drive-away. This occurs as engine torque shifts vehicle weight, forcing changes in driveline angles, preventing the driveshaft slip-yoke from sliding on the output shaft. To correct for this condition, lubricate the slip-yoke splines. For additional information, refer to «Section 205-01».