97 psd downpipe
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Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Fairbanks, Alaska
Even with Tymar's new 3-3.5-4" down-pipe you still need to tweak the firewall a little. It is not a major modification just a little tweaking. Just be sure you get a little clearance all the way around the pipe so it doesn't hit and rattle.
Last edited by Crumm; Sep 14, 2004 at 03:42 AM.
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Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Fairbanks, Alaska
Originally Posted by rustysf350
Had mine installed at Performance Exhaust in Pacific, WA and since it is two piece, they didn't have to do anything to the firewall.
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Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Fairbanks, Alaska
Did you watch them install it? They had to bend the cab seam back a little bit. There is no way it would fit without making a little bit more room. Most all downpipes are 3". It takes major modification to fit 3.5" or 4".
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Federal Way, WA
If I remember right the pipe itself had small flat spot were it went by the seam in the fire wall. Looked like they did that so it would not hit. It was not a big ding, but was maybe flaten out about 3/8" for about 2". But they did not beat on the fire wall.
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 632
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From: Fairbanks, Alaska
No way to beat on the firewall. You can't fit a hammer in there. Big pry bar does the trick or a porta-power. The flat spot in the down pipe would explain it though. The stock pipe is flat and it fits.
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Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Fairbanks, Alaska
100's of people have them and I have never heard of a problem.There is a heat shield on the firewall although it gets a little squished when you flatten out the seam. The firewall is steel so it will be fine. The only worry I have ever heard is people concerned that the carpet pad might catch on fire but I have never heard of it happening.
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Federal Way, WA
The wife rides on that side and even when we pull long grades with the 5th wheel, she does not notice any heat. And believe me, she would notice. She could tell that I put a tranny cooler on the first time out.
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Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Fairbanks, Alaska
A porta power is the best way but if you don't have one use a sawzall, 2x4 block and a BIG prybar. Just cut a few slots in the firewall lip and then put the 2x4 on the back of the cylinder head (be careful of the fuel line). Put the prybar on the 2x4 and pry the firewall lip back.