I was wondering if I should run a oil by-pass system on my 2001 f-250 psd , and which system should I use?

 

I bought the amsoil set up. A friend had it in his truck and I was very impressed. I bought it some time ago, right before I began renovations on my house. I'm still not done with the house but I want it in before the cold weather sets in. I'm going to my buddies garage two weeks from yesterday and we're finally going to install it. I've already fabricated the mounting brackets to mount it horizonally on the inside of the frame rail. I'll let you know how it turns out.

 

I'm using a Gulf Coast Filter O-1 oil bypass system that take the filtering process down enough to actually seperate the soot out of the oil along with harmfull microns, down to 1 micron, of material. Every 10-15K I change my by-pass filter and then my spin-on one at 25K. The oil being returned from the by-pass is almost as clean as the day it left the bottle. Every 3-5K, depending on usage, I have a oil sample sent off for analysis. It has always been well under tolerances with very little breakdown. Every time I change the By-Pass filter I add a full gallon of oil to make up for what was lost while changing it. That seems to keep the oil addatives sufficiently replentished.

You'll find that many people on this site with an oil bypass go ahead and do an oil change at 3K anyways. Heatstroked and I certainly have our own opinions on the change intervals, but we each do it for different reasons. If I happen to run my truck hard, then I will lower the interval to compensate. So far, so good. Besides, at almost $100 per normal oil change I've saved enough to pay for the system and am re-alocating the rest into more (grin meter enhancing ) mods.

I'm currently in USAF and their entire diesel fleet is being fitted with the same system I purchased. Our fleet managers are seeing huge decreases on engine maintenance and overhauls using the system. That's what sold me on the system. They're even trying to figure out a way to hook them to aircraft oil and hydraulic systems.

Check out this link to a review of Gulf Coast Oil by-pass filters by the Powerstroke Registry magazine. So far it has been working as advertised with my PSD.

GCF Review by The Powerstroke Registry

 

I think an oil bypass system is an excellent way to keep your engine running longer! I have the Oil Guard System. Very easy to install. They already have a bracket to use. All you do is find a good spot on the frame and mount it. The instructions were clear and it has made a definite difference. My choice is to not run extended oil drains. If you do that you have to watch your oil or you defeat the purpose of the filter. Diesel fuel can build up in your oil, and the additives can break down. For the cost of the extra filter and the 2 more quarts of oil, I would much rather just keep changing between 3000-5000. Actually I rarely go over 3500 miles on an oil change.

 

I'm using 4 Frantz Bypass filters on my PSD, and they work Awesome..
I have them on the Engine, Trans, Fuel and Coolant.. Best investment I've ever made.. Very Happy..

http://community.webshots.com/album/114815318vlzHVh

 

By far the best of the little filters and the easiest to service is the Motor Guard of California. They are too small for the big diesel engines unless you don't mind changing them often. I needed a filter that can filter down to the submicronic level with enough capacity to handle a 750 HP diesel engine. I knew that I could manifold the little filters and get the results I need but it gets expensive and impractical for large engines. I just put a Cummins Fleetguard 750 housing on a 8.3 Cummins in a yard tractor. It is modified to take a submicronic element that should out filter even the TP filters because of it's size and flow rate. It will eliminate routine oil drains and should take a small diesel pickup 30,000 miles between filter changes. The elements will cost about 7 dollars if you roll your own. The secondary filter cost less than 5 buucks. It will also take the Fleetguard LF 750 element that has the secondary filter in the element. One drawback is the filters are big. It takes some inovation to mount a 10" by 20" long filter on a standard pickup. The filter holds four gallons of oil.
Even this monster can't remove all of the soot. The oil will still get black. It will get more than any of the rest unless you are using something impractical such as activated charcoal. If the flow is the same and the filter media is the same the big filter will always beat the little filter. 15 Frantz oil cleaners or 15 Motor Guard oil cleaners in parallel throttled thru a 1/16" orifice could beat the big filter. It would be about 6 times as expensive. The big filters would be for people that drive a lot of miles such as a hot shotter. No more than I drive the little one qt filter does fine. I can change the little Motor Guard in less than one minute. I don't know how many miles a person could go between filter changes if a sample of oil was sent to a lab every 10,000 miles or so.
The Motor Guard ATF filter hooks up in line on the transmissions with 3/8" and smaller lines to the cooler. No external fitting is required. The element bypass is in the filter. For the big cooler lines I use a dual remote system. Full flow filter such as the FL-1A and the submicronic filter. More expensive but there is no restriction of the fluid.
The little filters work very well because the Powerstrokes have enough suck to pull the fuel thru and protect the stock filters. The Motor Guard is designed to handle vacuum. I like to use a Viton O-ring for fuel.

Ralph