1980 ford 100 starter problems
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1980 ford 100 starter problems
I have problems when I start my truck the starter doesn't disengage. It works fine out of the truck. I replace the selonoid, the starter, cable and battery. Does anyone know what else I can do. Thank You
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From: S. Mississippi
It sounds like the ignition switch is staying in the "start" position or sticking there. Try after the truck starts, turning the ign switch backwards just slightly and see if the starter disengages.
Failing that you may be looking at a new Ign switch for the column, and perhaps a new starter.
Edit: Also you may be looking at a bent Ign pushrod. Or it just might be sticking allowing the starter to stay engaged.
Failing that you may be looking at a new Ign switch for the column, and perhaps a new starter.
Edit: Also you may be looking at a bent Ign pushrod. Or it just might be sticking allowing the starter to stay engaged.
Last edited by desperado_18_2000; Sep 11, 2004 at 12:45 PM.
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From: Right Next to U
Replace the electrical ignition switch under the column thats connected to the key ignition cylinder, you may have to adjust the rod that it goes into, these switches usually break and part of the switch rides the contacts in the switch resulting in the starter staying in the on position. The contact rod isn't likely to be bent unless the rod has jambed in the switch, which would make it impossible to turn to the off an lock positions.
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Same problem
I am having the same problem with my '86 F250 with a 460. I have replaced my steering column, starter, starter solenoid, fusible link, both ignition switches (electrical and key portions) and battery cables. While it is continuing to crank, if you hit the solenoid, it stops. I have replaced the solenoid twice thinking that I may have gotten a defective one. I am at a loss. The truck needs a lot done, but to me it's not worth continuing until I can track this problem down. Any suggestions?
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From: Right Next to U
Grizzlyman, Your problem seems like it could be the electrical switch is not adjusted correctly, don't know if you have tried to adjust it, but with all you have replaced, thats the most logical place for the problem to be at....there is really no sure way of knowing just how much you can adjust with these switches, but I have adjusted a few by first starting with the switch loose enough to move, then turning the key cylinder to check where the contact will be to start, then adjust it back a bit first, then tightening the two 5/16 in screws (some has 5/16 in nuts on the switch) and then trying that till I am satisfied that the rod is contacting the starting contacts and it moves evenly with no binding in the rod, its important for it to move correctly...in the right spot.
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I have tried disconnecting the two leads running to the solenoid while it is cranking, and it doesn't seem to make a difference. I have adjusted the switch. Several times. While it is stuck, moving the switch from one spot to another seems to operate everything as it is supposed to. (accessory, ignition, etc.) Is it possible that I got a defective switch that the start position just gets stuck "on", and allows everything else to work properly? This truck has a battery isolator for the trailer connection. I had considered that as being some kind of a problem also? The electrical portions of a vehicle confuse me more than any other. I am to the point of just putting this truck on ebay. Any ideas on how much it's worth? It has a 460, C6 that has burned up it's clutches, 4.11 rear end, supercab that needs paint, XLT Lariat. 50 gallon gas tank in the bed, canopy, good rubber, rear seat has been lifted.
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From: Right Next to U
first starting with the switch loose enough to move, then turning the key cylinder to check where the contact will be to start, then adjust it back a bit first, then tightening the two 5/16 in screws (some has 5/16 in nuts on the switch) and then trying that till I am satisfied that the rod is contacting the starting contacts and it moves evenly with no binding in the rod, its important for it to move correctly...in the right spot.
Basically 12 v dc systems require one thing...an ground in which to operate, dc voltage only goes one way in a circuit, and thats through the "switch" "light" and then to ground. If you were to use a test light, and place the 12v dc red lead to the hot side of the battery, and then the black lead to the ground. "frame" or anywhere where the isn't 12v dc, the light would light up...it works the same way with multimeter, (you can't short out a circuit unless you go directly to the ground without the resistance for the circuit) DOn't just take a wire to the battery pos post (+) and then go an lead the wire to ground only...with the ground connection to the battery connected...you'll melt the wire (because of the amperes in the battery are usually high enough to) or if the wire is thick, it will create a spark you'll be proud to see on the 4th of July....
Basically 12 v dc systems require one thing...an ground in which to operate, dc voltage only goes one way in a circuit, and thats through the "switch" "light" and then to ground. If you were to use a test light, and place the 12v dc red lead to the hot side of the battery, and then the black lead to the ground. "frame" or anywhere where the isn't 12v dc, the light would light up...it works the same way with multimeter, (you can't short out a circuit unless you go directly to the ground without the resistance for the circuit) DOn't just take a wire to the battery pos post (+) and then go an lead the wire to ground only...with the ground connection to the battery connected...you'll melt the wire (because of the amperes in the battery are usually high enough to) or if the wire is thick, it will create a spark you'll be proud to see on the 4th of July....
