4X4 Stuck Again
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4X4 Stuck Again
Hi,
I need some advice and direction. I have a 1992 EB 351 with the dreaded push-button four wheel drive. As advised, I put it in FWD at least once a month to keep the motor working and to make sure it will be there when I need it. As I was performing my ritual today it, at first, worked as normal, then as I put it in neutral to test FWL the system went dark. No lights, no reassuring clicking noise, nothing except stuck in FWD.
I removed the motor and can manually switch from FWH to TWH but then the notch on the drive will not match up to allow me to replace the motor. So I put in back into FWH and replaced the motor. I am at a loss on how to get it back to TWH until I can diagnose and repair.
I suspected the dash switch and figured that was a cheap place to start until I called for a price
$210.00 yikes. I did not even price the controller, I was still dizzy! I did attempt to run the diog on the controller but it seems the self test button is broken, just my luck!
I am motivated to convert to a complete manual system, replacing the T-Case, and manual hubs ect... But I have no idea where to look for a T-Case, if I get one from salvage, how hard are they to rebuild, is the conversion worth it? Can I afford it? I am sure someone can help me share the pain.
Oh, one last question, can I remove the electronic motor, manually shift to TWH and put some sort of seal over the exposed parts until I get things sorted out?
Sorry for the long post and Thanks.
Philmo418
I need some advice and direction. I have a 1992 EB 351 with the dreaded push-button four wheel drive. As advised, I put it in FWD at least once a month to keep the motor working and to make sure it will be there when I need it. As I was performing my ritual today it, at first, worked as normal, then as I put it in neutral to test FWL the system went dark. No lights, no reassuring clicking noise, nothing except stuck in FWD.
I removed the motor and can manually switch from FWH to TWH but then the notch on the drive will not match up to allow me to replace the motor. So I put in back into FWH and replaced the motor. I am at a loss on how to get it back to TWH until I can diagnose and repair.
I suspected the dash switch and figured that was a cheap place to start until I called for a price
$210.00 yikes. I did not even price the controller, I was still dizzy! I did attempt to run the diog on the controller but it seems the self test button is broken, just my luck!I am motivated to convert to a complete manual system, replacing the T-Case, and manual hubs ect... But I have no idea where to look for a T-Case, if I get one from salvage, how hard are they to rebuild, is the conversion worth it? Can I afford it? I am sure someone can help me share the pain.
Oh, one last question, can I remove the electronic motor, manually shift to TWH and put some sort of seal over the exposed parts until I get things sorted out?
Sorry for the long post and Thanks.
Philmo418
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Another Idea
Did I stump the band???? What about this idea. I never need "on demand" 4X4. Since this is the case can I hook up a three way switch directly from the dash to the shift motor bypassing the OEM switch and the controller? Any thoughts?
Philmo418
Philmo418
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From: ny
philmo,any way you can get that motor to work is fine but remember you will be defeating the logic circuitry and may be able to theoretically go into lo range while doing 60 and blow up everything!!!!!!!! regards,shovelhead
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That Would Suck Outloud.
shovelhead,
Thanks for the reply. I got busy with the meter and pretty much eliminated everything but the control module, which no longer makes the clicking sound any more. I have a 91 that I may switch out the modules to see if that is what it is. The only confusion I have now is according to the manual and meter readings it thinks it is in FWL when it is physically in FWH..... I am not sure of the procedure to sync it all back up again.
Philmo.
Thanks for the reply. I got busy with the meter and pretty much eliminated everything but the control module, which no longer makes the clicking sound any more. I have a 91 that I may switch out the modules to see if that is what it is. The only confusion I have now is according to the manual and meter readings it thinks it is in FWL when it is physically in FWH..... I am not sure of the procedure to sync it all back up again.
Philmo.
