Have a mechanical clutch (pre-hydraulic) on a F-250 4 speed. Another shop installed a new clutch, PP , pilot Brng, throwout brng , and also the throw out arm. This clutch pedal only utilizes one (1) inch of travel from dis-engaged to engaged, and is adjustable in it's position. It takes a great deal of pressure to operate this clutch. When attempting to start out, it leaps due to such a small amout of travel. My Question is : Were there different length throw out arms? This thing needs to be a whole lot longer to get the leverages correct. Have any of you encountered this problem. Could this be the wrong release arm ? The frame to engine bellcrank seems to be origional so I am assuming (dangerous term to apply to this) that the throw-out arm is the culprit. Please advise if you have encountered this problem, and what is the Fix ?

 

I have to say that I pretty much have the same problem that you are having. My truck has a 4 spd trans in it and there is no travel at all. It is funny watching my Fiancee drive it because she is always spinning the tires. She isn't that great with my other cars that are 5-speed but I just assumed that the travel was stock.

 

geeez, you are cruel to her ! No , this isn't the way they were "engineered to work" Keep an eye on this post , and maybe we'll find a way to make "Her" happy and me too ! Thanks

 

These linkages wear out over time and require the adjuster to be backed out further and further to compensate. Sometimes you can get away just replacing the bushings.
As for adjustment, the way I do it;
With the motor running, clutch pedal to the floor, wait 2 seconds and shift into reverse. There should be no grinding. If there is, it is not disengaging and needs more adjustment.
Once it shifts cleanly into reverse (un-synchronized gear) raise the pedal a half inch off the floor and repeat procedure.
Continue doing this until you hear grinding going into reverse and note how far you have the pedal off the floor.
This is the amount of disengagement and should be at least a minimum of one inch to prevent damage to the transmission (and hard shifting)
Now with the motor off check the freeplay you have with the clutch out.
This play is necessary to allow complete clutch engagement and allows the throw-out bearing to be pulled away from the clutch pressure plate so it dosen't wear out.
Now adjust the linkage so you have equal amounts at both top and bottom of pedal travel.
If you can't get a minimum of 1" disengagement then you will have to re-engineer your adjuster longer or start seeking less-worn clutch linkage components!
Good luck!
Steve G.

 

I think I was asleep at the switch when I first answered your question and missed the point! (sorry)
I also have a yard truck with a "grabby" clutch, however it is hydraulic, not manual linkage (85 F250-460)
When a clutch disc is manufactured (or remanufactured) the friction material is riveted to a series of "wave plates" which act as springs and keep the friction plates apart.
When you inspect the clutch for wear you can do it visually (which is the norm) or clamp it in a vice to compress the wave plates and use a micrometer to gauge the wear.
These "wave plates" are there to allow a gradual engagement of the clutch as the pressure plate sandwiches it to the flywheel.
My guess would be that remanufacturer stamped an inferior arc in these wave plates resulting in little to no compression of the pressure plate halves, resulting in a "grabby" clutch or used an crappy grade steel to manufacturer them! (they wouldn't do that, would they)
As for being difficult to operate, try taking every piece of linkage apart, cleaning and greasing them! This will make a BIG difference!!!
Once you have greased and adjusted the clutch properly, see if the problem is still there.
If it is, take it back to the repair shop and have the mechanic drive it.
He will tell you "give it time to let it break in"
Set a mileage point (2,500) from installation mileage
Tell him (or her) that if it dosen't, you would like to have another clutch and pressure plate from a different manufacturer installed.
Maybe you can learn to compensate (your driveing skills) for a poor quality clutch.
What if you were trying to sell the truck and the prespective buyer passed on the sale because the clutch "sucked"!!!
I'll bet you paid good money for a good job and got a good job only to be screwed up by poor quality parts.
This is unacceptable!
Remember, the mechanic didn't make the parts, he only installed them!
Good luck!
Steve G.

 

Instead of pressure plate halves, I meant;
"resulting in little to no compression to the disc halves"
Steve G.