Timing problems
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
From: Friendswood
Last night I double checked the plug wire position and fireing order. I also verified top dead center on cyclinder number one and the number one spot on the cap. I didn't change the knock sensor as it seems you need to remove the upper manifold to get at it. I have the timing currtently at 12 degrees BTDC and I only get the pinging on hard acceleration. Any more ideas to check.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,557
Likes: 44
From: Concord, NC
Try running some SeaFoam through the brake booster vacuum line. You could have a carbon build up in the cylinders that could be causing the ping. The seafoam would clean all that out. Try advancing the timing until you hear it ping, then back off on it just a tad until you can't hear it pinging any more. This should be the best time for the power and economy anyway. Then check and see where that is on the timing marks.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,552
Likes: 0
From: va
Autozone and Advance auto can read codes for free. Call them first and ask them if they can read codes for your truck. You said it lacked power before you set the timming, maybe check the fuel pressure. You can also read codes yourself see http://fordfuelinjection.com/ford_fu...main_index.htm
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 136
Likes: 1
Hello,
I've read your message, and maybe I missed something. The one thing that sticks out is that none of this happened until you changed your plugs/cap/rotor and wires. My guess is the problem is in wire ROUTING. These motors are very sensitive to proper plug wire routing. Make double sure that none of your wires are parallel, or touching and parallel. You could be getting crossfire. Set your timing back at factory specs and make sure that your wires are right. This might be your problem also.
ALso you said that you have pinging upon hard acceleration. I agree with the carbon buildup in the combustion chambers. If you are accelerating and NOT at WOT, than maybe your EGR is plugged. Remember that EGR cools combustion chambers, and these engines' spark curves are calibrated assuming that theEGR is working. IF it isn't working, your combustion chamber temps. are hotter and you will get some detonation.
Hope this helps,
I've read your message, and maybe I missed something. The one thing that sticks out is that none of this happened until you changed your plugs/cap/rotor and wires. My guess is the problem is in wire ROUTING. These motors are very sensitive to proper plug wire routing. Make double sure that none of your wires are parallel, or touching and parallel. You could be getting crossfire. Set your timing back at factory specs and make sure that your wires are right. This might be your problem also.
ALso you said that you have pinging upon hard acceleration. I agree with the carbon buildup in the combustion chambers. If you are accelerating and NOT at WOT, than maybe your EGR is plugged. Remember that EGR cools combustion chambers, and these engines' spark curves are calibrated assuming that theEGR is working. IF it isn't working, your combustion chamber temps. are hotter and you will get some detonation.
Hope this helps,
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,161
Likes: 1
From: Prince George, B.C.
If the seafoam doesn't help here is what we do with our auto trans vehicles. Have someone hold the brakes HARD while holding the truck around 2500-3000 RPM, then adjust the dist till it pulls as hard as possible without pinging (standing to the side of the truck of course) then let off the gas and shut it down and tighten the dist. We haven't done this on ours yet but we have never had an engine blow from doing it this way. We plan on it soon though because it is getting better as we play with the timing.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,557
Likes: 44
From: Concord, NC
That is extremely dangerous. A simple test drive would do the same thing. Or, set the distributor, brake stall it, listen for ping, put back in park, adjust and repeat. I would not suggest that method to anyone.
Last edited by EPNCSU2006; Sep 10, 2004 at 02:05 PM.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Friendswood
I picked up the seafoam during my luch hour and will try it out tomorrow. Thanks for everyones suggestions.
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Oh, timing.
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,161
Likes: 1
From: Prince George, B.C.
No, normally I wouldn't either but as a last effort it works well, Power timing is good when the marks on the damper move thats usually why we do it that way. My father lost a 318 Big block in a plymouth to that problem because the shop didn't know the rubbler will let the balancer move over time, so the marks were way off and he never bothered to reset it he went on a trip from Calgary to Prince George (around 900 miles) and 4 rods went through the oil pan beforre he could find a phone. It still ran the next day though. Amazingly
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,557
Likes: 44
From: Concord, NC
It wouldn't even be a last effort - it would be never. You can power time it by driving which is much much safer than having someone under the hood with the engine pulling hard against the brakes.
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,161
Likes: 1
From: Prince George, B.C.
how do you go about powertiming by driving? That has to take a few hours because of the small amount you need to move the dist. Although I have seen some people try it and get hurt but I think thier IQ may have been just below zero. If the truck has good brakes and the guy in the drivers seat knows how to use the brake and gas at once the guy under the hood will be fine. I just don't know if it will work on the EFI pickups because of the spout connector.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,557
Likes: 44
From: Concord, NC
You set the timing up until you hear it pinging (load up the engine good, i.e. accelerate quickly, lug the engine, brake if it is an automatic), then back it off just a hair until it goes away. That's how I've done it, and it doesn't really take that long - just 4-5 trips up and down the street depending on how close it is. Anyone messing around under a hood (much less in front of) of a car with the motor pulling hard forward against the brakes has a low IQ to begin with.
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,161
Likes: 1
From: Prince George, B.C.
I never said stand in front of I said stand to the side and do it. And yea it is dangerous but this was taught to me by an old timer so If he and his coworkers all survived doing it for years its not as dangerous as working under a car while on a hydraulic jack with no stands as I see lots of people do.
