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Have someone push the clutch while you are looking at the clutch master cylinder. You may have the dreaded firewall flex problem. If the master cylinder moves, Ford has a bracket that fixes the problem.
diesel dan, had any problems with the starter switch notr making contact?you may before too much longer.i have a 89 f350 7.3 w/5spd and have mine tore apart right now trying to get all the linkage right.lots of bushing wear.
dave, how does the bracket that ford has fit on?what do you ask them for?i took the whole pedal assembly out.there was slop in both ends of the cross-shaft bushings.i bought new ones and im gonna replace them this morning.i dont think i have too firewall play but i dont know what else it may be.if this doesnt do it ,im really stumped.Do i need to install the bracket from ford with the pedal assembly in or out?thanks.
dieseldan,sorry,wasnt trying to hijack your thread,it just sounded similar to my problem and i thought maybe we could help each other.
The bracket is a clutch master cylinder stiffener.
Costs about 20 dollars.
It installs from the engine compartment.
I think I had to unbolt the clutch master cylinder, been a while since I did that repair.
I just bought one from Ford about a month ago. $16.00. It installed from inside the cab. Peice of cake to put in. It may be easier to drill your holes from the engine compartment though. Mine came with a template and instructions, can you believe it. I even used them, lol. I had the pedal assembly out already for a automatic to standard swap when I did mine but it is not necessary. Daves right, you do have to unbolt the clutch master cylinder.
Hey Dave, How do you like the 7.3 in your `86? I have one I am thinking about sticking in one of my `86 F350 non-turbo 4x4`s. Can you tell much difference on power? Is it worth the trouble? Not trying to hijack your thread, Dan.
Hey Dan, My dad has a problem with his `85 F350 that I never have with my `86`s in that every once in a while he has to oil the fingers on the pressure plate with a small amount of oil. His clutch will get so stiff you can`t hardly push it. The oiling eliminates it for about a year. Don`t overdo it though if you decide to try it.
IF the firewall was flexing then wouldnt the clutch not disengage fully? How does this cause it to be so stiff. It causes the entire dash to sqeak. thanks for the help.
PS has anyone ever replaced the glow plug relay on the 89 7.3?
Main reason is when the firewall flexes it is putting all the linkage in a bind.
AKA hard to push, squeaks galore.
Yes, when it gets real bad the clutch will not engage enough to be able to shift into gear.
I converted mine to manual glow plugs, makes them last lots longer.
Horton, I like my 86 sleeper real well. The Dodges, Chevys, and Power Strokes have no idea what hit them between the eyes. By the time they hear the turbo, it's to late, I'm gone and they are choking on my smoke.
I use a momentary toggle switch. I hold it approximately 3 seconds. I have yet to have to change any of my glow plugs on my trucks, knock on wood! DO NOT USE A REGULAR TOGGLE SWITCH AS IT CAN GET BUMPED INTO THE ON POSITION AND YOU WILL BE IN TROUBLE!
In WV I hit them for about 3 seconds in the summer for the first start of the day. The rest of the day I do not use them at all.
In the winter when it is zero I give them 9 or 10 seconds first start of the day unless I had it plugged in. Then I do not use them unless it sits for 5 or 6 hours without running.
When you figure the controller heats them about 9 seconds every time you turn the key on, these should last for 5 or 6 years.
Also the controller is about 175 dollars from Ford if you replace it.
The manual conversion cost me 20 minutes and 5 dollars for a momentary switch, already had the 10 feet of wire.
Dave, how do you hook up the switch? are there only a couple wires going to the relay? I havent looked at it yet but it sounds like a good idea since i dont feel like blowing 175 on a relay that will probably wear out again in a few years. Would a button type switch work? thanks for the help
PS the firewall flex sounds like my problem and I didnt know if you had to unhook the master cylinder or not. I wasnt wanting to pull out all the pedals and linkage
The plugs are only staying on for about 4 seconds and it wont start unless I get them to cylce for at least 8. It gets cold here in the winter and I will need them to run for about 10 probably when it gets down around 0. I already replaced the entire fuel system including both pumps, injectors, and fuel lines. It is the only thing that I can think of that would make it start hard.
My clutch pedal was getting hard to push. Then the other day I pushed it in and the master cylinder broke in half. Something inside bound up and the leverage was enough to rip it in two.
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