Low Brake pedal
New User
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: North Central
Low Brake pedal
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 05-May-02 AT 11:54 PM (EST)]Here's the scoop.
92 AWD - 158k
Opened up caliper got it out of the way, removed pad and rotor, then replaced Upper/Lower Ball Joints, Hub and Tie Rod on right side.
Then Re-Installed rotor pads and caliper... (Didn't open
brake up the system.)
Got in, started it up and...my brake pedal went to the floor.
Replaced Master cylinder... Didn't help.
Any Ideas?
92 AWD - 158k
Opened up caliper got it out of the way, removed pad and rotor, then replaced Upper/Lower Ball Joints, Hub and Tie Rod on right side.
Then Re-Installed rotor pads and caliper... (Didn't open
brake up the system.)
Got in, started it up and...my brake pedal went to the floor.
Replaced Master cylinder... Didn't help.
Any Ideas?
Low Brake pedal
New User
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: North Central
Low Brake pedal
Hey... I'm open to any suggestions at this point, but yes I did...
About 100x
I've even replaced the caliper now and still the same problem.
Done lots of brakes, but this has me stumped.
About 100x
I've even replaced the caliper now and still the same problem.
Done lots of brakes, but this has me stumped.
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 79
Likes: 0
From: rio rancho USA
Low Brake pedal
The problem is probably the safety valve below the master. Follow the lines down from the master and you will find a "t" type thing. It has a wire connected to the brake light. If the brake light is on then it most definitely is the problem.
Sometimes when putting more pressure on one end of the system it will jam in position where it seals off the weaker system end thus creating a hard to fix situation. Try bleeding the brakes one at a time and be as violent as you can about it. Sometimes this will break it loose. If this doesn't work, there is a place to manipulate it from the rear line end I think. It's a real PITA to deal with!!
Good luck
Sometimes when putting more pressure on one end of the system it will jam in position where it seals off the weaker system end thus creating a hard to fix situation. Try bleeding the brakes one at a time and be as violent as you can about it. Sometimes this will break it loose. If this doesn't work, there is a place to manipulate it from the rear line end I think. It's a real PITA to deal with!!
Good luck
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 3,818
Likes: 3
Low Brake pedal
When you start the vehicle, does the yellow "anti-lock" warning light and the red "brake" light stay on? Also, when you first removed the caliper assemblies, did you force the pistons back into the calipers or open the bleeder valve at the caliper? Post back, I have a hunch what may be your problem.
New User
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: North Central
Low Brake pedal
Yes, you were both right. I changed the caliper as I said before and it finally started working after about 20 pumps, so the caliper was bad. We then drove the van to New Orleans from MPLS on Monday, with a car trailer attached without a problem. Once down there.... BOTH lights started to come on!!! Ugh!
Anyway. We hauled the car we bought back since the brakes were working fine... eventhough the lights are on saying otherwise!
I picked up one of those "T" assemblies at a bone yard before we left, and if I can't break it loose, will replace it.
Thanks for all your help!
Anyway. We hauled the car we bought back since the brakes were working fine... eventhough the lights are on saying otherwise!
I picked up one of those "T" assemblies at a bone yard before we left, and if I can't break it loose, will replace it.
Thanks for all your help!
