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valve seats

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Old Sep 4, 2004 | 07:37 PM
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omni
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valve seats

I'm using a little more than I would like, truck has 100,000 miles 94 5.8 E4OD, doesn't leak any, and don't notice blue out the pipe, but it has to be going some where, the compression is all around 145-150, my question is could it be leaking through the valve guides, or do you think its the oil ring on the pistons, I just topped it up I'm going to start keeping a closer look at my mile/oil ratio, at a rough first guess I was thinking like a quart every 2000 miles, which by the replies I got isn't to bad, but seems to be using more than that. any comments on this one thanks Randy
 
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Old Sep 4, 2004 | 07:50 PM
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larry derouin
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From: Glen Burnie Maryland
Check it COLD in the morning after sitting for at least 8 hours. Get the wife/G-friend/mom/dad start the engine while you watch the exhaust. Usually you will get just enough of a bluish smoke to notice and it's gone in about 5 seconds to indicate valve guides or seals.

oil rings will be a steady or pulsating stream that's more or less constant.

If you find that it's just when you start it up in the morning get a set of new seals, a valve cover gasket set, and spend the weekend getting to know your valvetrain.

I seriously doubt it's rings at this stage of the game.

Larry
 
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Old Sep 4, 2004 | 09:57 PM
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thanks for the reply, if its valve seals it would leak oil into the cylinder when its running correct?? enough to use a that much oil?? can you point me to a thread on changing valve seals, I have a compressor. you have to pump air into the cylinder while you change the seal right, I've never done this, but I will try to do it with a little guidance. I have an old 305 chev V8 sitting around I could try a practice run on that thing before I launch into my 5.8
 
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Old Sep 5, 2004 | 08:16 AM
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larry derouin
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From: Glen Burnie Maryland
It leaks down into the cylinder. You get the most overnight, enough to cause smoking. When it's running it's not enough for noticable smoke.

Use a small compressor to put pressure in each cylinder (making sure it's at TDC first, so both valves are SHUT!) and remove the rocker arm, valve keeper, spring assy. Pull off what's left of the old seal and the nlubricate the new seal and press it on. re-install the spring assy, valve keeper, and rocker arms. Adjust the rocker arms per instructions. Usually I just count how many turns all the way down to the stop and then back out. reverse this when installing. Write down how many turns for each valve. It gets confusing when you're on the 13th valve and your remembering the 7th.

Larry
 
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Old Sep 5, 2004 | 11:33 AM
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thanks for all your help Larry
 
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