Gear Ratio Switch?
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
From: SW Kansas
Gear Ratio Switch?
I have a 60 F-250 4X4. Where can I find the codes that tell me what gears I am running now? If I am lucky, I can get 50 mph without blowing up the new motor, and it is normal to use 4th gear when going down a residential street. What's the easiest and least expensive way to be able to go down the HWY at 65 and to be able to use first for something other than racing turtles? I AM probably going to install 35's eventually on the truck, and have been told that I may get all of the change that I want from that. Thanks for the input.....Rick
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 2,440
Likes: 0
From: Ventura County, CA
It sounds like you ARE over-geared for the tires you have on now. What size are they? Will the 35's be a huge increase? If your truck is stock, the vin should allow you to decode what gears are in there. If not, the truest way IMO is to open up the diff and count teeth. That way at least you know for certain exactly what's in there. Only problem is... you have the expense of replacing gear oil and diff gasket(s). I don't recall the exact equation, but once you've counted the teeth, contact a tranny shop and tell them what you have. They s/b able to know from that.
Good luck,
DS
Good luck,
DS
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 890
Likes: 0
From: New York
My '60 F-100 has 3:70s in the rear. Using 4th gear (direct-drive, the equivalent of my 3rd gear) is normal on residential streets .. I always cruise in 3rd if I'm doing 30.
However, my speedo reads about 80 when the engine is really revving. If yours is screaming at 50, I would guess that your gears are probably closer to 4:11.
Also, a note about first gear: The first gear in the four-speed will always be really really low. It's often referred to as a "creeper" or "granny" gear. When you're not racing turtles, you can use it to pull stumps.
However, my speedo reads about 80 when the engine is really revving. If yours is screaming at 50, I would guess that your gears are probably closer to 4:11.
Also, a note about first gear: The first gear in the four-speed will always be really really low. It's often referred to as a "creeper" or "granny" gear. When you're not racing turtles, you can use it to pull stumps.
More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 682
Likes: 0
From: Peoria, IL (more or less)
As far as counting the teeth....divide the ring gear teeth by the pinion teeth to get yer ratio. For example, 41 ring teeth div. by 10 pinion teeth equals.....class.....anybody????? (sigh) a 4.10:1 ratio. Extra homework for everyone!
Oh...sorry....flashback! Too much helping the kids with homework today....
Oh...sorry....flashback! Too much helping the kids with homework today....
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 2,484
Likes: 7
From: New Egypt, New Jersey
Hi Shelstin, 
The 1959 & 1960 F-250 4x4's only came with the gearing ratios of 4.56 in the rear axle (Dana 60), and 4.55 in the front axle (Dana 44-4F).
For 1960, this gear ratio combo reads as "04B" on your rating plate.
If your truck is original, that is what you would have. From your description, it doesn't sound as if anyone has ever swapped them out. Even with the right ratios for highway speed, you will never need to use 1st gear. 1st is usually only used for pulling something heavy (like knocking down a barn), plowing, or getting un-stuck.
I don't know what ratio will give you better highway speeds. My truck is identical to yours only a year older, so I know what you mean. I don't drive on the highway for the same reasons.
If you do decide to make your truck perform at highway speeds, you will need to consider making it stop at highway speeds as well.
The 1959 & 1960 F-250 4x4's only came with the gearing ratios of 4.56 in the rear axle (Dana 60), and 4.55 in the front axle (Dana 44-4F).
For 1960, this gear ratio combo reads as "04B" on your rating plate.
If your truck is original, that is what you would have. From your description, it doesn't sound as if anyone has ever swapped them out. Even with the right ratios for highway speed, you will never need to use 1st gear. 1st is usually only used for pulling something heavy (like knocking down a barn), plowing, or getting un-stuck.
I don't know what ratio will give you better highway speeds. My truck is identical to yours only a year older, so I know what you mean. I don't drive on the highway for the same reasons.
If you do decide to make your truck perform at highway speeds, you will need to consider making it stop at highway speeds as well.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,328
Likes: 124
From: Iowa
Rick
Are you running a stock drivetrain? 35" tires require quite a bit of gear, but 4.56 is still going to wind up the engine just a bit on the highway. If you had OD it would be perfect gearing. I think I would install the tall tires before I started changing gears.
Are you running a stock drivetrain? 35" tires require quite a bit of gear, but 4.56 is still going to wind up the engine just a bit on the highway. If you had OD it would be perfect gearing. I think I would install the tall tires before I started changing gears.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
From: SW Kansas
I appreciate the input tremendously. I am a total rookie at this stuff. The truck is completely stock, I am sure. For most of it's life, it was used for farm/ranch work then later pulled behind a tractor from field to field for fuel and running errands. Kenny, the ID plate in the glove box shows 04. No B unless it is covered by the rivet.
With my budget, the tires may even have to wait a bit until the used 265/75/16's I have on now are gone.
I am learning more every day, and now I am just fixing what I need to fix to keep it on the road. It seems like it's something new every day, also!. I've got a 99 F150 4x4 that seems to be sitting more and more. Yesterday I spent 12 hours buffing out the original paint, and sanding, priming and painting the grill back to white instead of rust. Now that it's running, I can just work on it bit by bit. Today, I have changed the sending unit gasket off of the gas tank to help with the fuel smell, and am replacing the defroster hoses and head lights. I need to rewire the tail lights and install the speedo if I find the time. I think that I'm ready to put in a cheap stereo. It will be my first non-mandatory fix! Any ideas on speaker placement?? The door is an option, but they may take a beating there.
Thanks again the the help.
With my budget, the tires may even have to wait a bit until the used 265/75/16's I have on now are gone.
I am learning more every day, and now I am just fixing what I need to fix to keep it on the road. It seems like it's something new every day, also!. I've got a 99 F150 4x4 that seems to be sitting more and more. Yesterday I spent 12 hours buffing out the original paint, and sanding, priming and painting the grill back to white instead of rust. Now that it's running, I can just work on it bit by bit. Today, I have changed the sending unit gasket off of the gas tank to help with the fuel smell, and am replacing the defroster hoses and head lights. I need to rewire the tail lights and install the speedo if I find the time. I think that I'm ready to put in a cheap stereo. It will be my first non-mandatory fix! Any ideas on speaker placement?? The door is an option, but they may take a beating there.
Thanks again the the help.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 890
Likes: 0
From: New York
Shelstin, check my gallery for one option on deck and speaker placement. Me and my father made new door access panels out mahogany plywood, and mounted a pair of 6x9s in them. The screws at the top of the panel are also holding a rubber flap that drapes over the speaker to protect it from incoming rainwater. It works pretty well. It also sounds good, but that may depend on the wooden panels, the rubber behind the top of the panel, and the additional sound insulation we have in the cab roof under the headliner.
Also, if you go with 6x9s, make note of the position of the speaker in the panel. We set it forward to make it project into the seat as little as possible, and we set it down to provide ample clearance for the window mechanism.
Also, if you go with 6x9s, make note of the position of the speaker in the panel. We set it forward to make it project into the seat as little as possible, and we set it down to provide ample clearance for the window mechanism.
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
From: SW Kansas
Kooper, that's an idea that I had not considered. When I was replacing the defrost hose yesterday, I noted that the defroster "vents" or whatever they are called, are made of a fiber or card board. Rotten completely. Duct tape may hold until I can get new, maybe not. I will start doing a bed off restoration this winter, hopefully. I ended up looking at every pic. Our trucks have a lot in common, starting with the motor and cab corner problems. My rust is not nearly as extensive as yours, although the same stuff will have to be done. I can buy the cab corners from several suppliers for about 42 a piece. Probably less than the cost of fabrication. Got the tail lights working. There may simply be a bad connection in the light switch itself. A little rusty, maybe. Brake lights needed a switch on master cylinder. Did you replace a door? I thought that I saw a red door in the background of one of the pics. Tailgate? Even if you did not replace them, do you have any idea what I could expect to pay for a door or a tailgate at a salvage yard, if I could find one? Thanks for the info!
Rick
Rick
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 890
Likes: 0
From: New York
We replaced both doors, but not the tailgate. We paid $750 (including shipping) for the pair of doors, from Georgia, but they weren't quite what they were advertised to be. For one thing, they were simply wrapped in cardboard and thrown on a truck, so the corners of the doors were bent over from shipping. The doors also had some bondo and crappy touch-up paint on them .. and some ignoramus sanded one of the vent windows.
I think for a rust-free door that needs some work, hardware, etc. about $100 would be good? Someone else either back me up or correct me here.
Just a word of advice: When repairing cab corners, rocker panels, etc ... leave the old doors on so you know the door opening is usable. If you weld everything up and the opening is too small, you're stuck.
I think for a rust-free door that needs some work, hardware, etc. about $100 would be good? Someone else either back me up or correct me here.
Just a word of advice: When repairing cab corners, rocker panels, etc ... leave the old doors on so you know the door opening is usable. If you weld everything up and the opening is too small, you're stuck.
Last edited by kooper909; Sep 7, 2004 at 02:07 PM.