Getting ready for the first oil change!
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 142
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From: Parkton, Maryland
Getting ready for the first oil change!
I think the title says it all........I am a desiel newbie, and thought I might ask the masses if there is anything special I need to know......I have ordered the Fomoto valve I read about earlier, and was curious about the Oilguard Bypass filter kit talked about last night.....Does this replace or work in addition to the stock filter (told you I was a newbie)??
I still have about 5-600 miles before I need to change so I might have time to get it before this change, if not then by next for sure.
PS, Have on '04 f250 crew 6.0l
Thanx in advance
Trevor
I still have about 5-600 miles before I need to change so I might have time to get it before this change, if not then by next for sure.
PS, Have on '04 f250 crew 6.0l
Thanx in advance
Trevor
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,483
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From: Central Texas
See the procedures I wrote up from existing information and tips from the rest of the gang here on FTE:
Oil Drain Procedures
Make sure not to put in more than 13.5 quarts on refilling. After running for a minute or two after refilling, let it sit for about 15 mins and check the oil level. If it is in the crosshatched area of the dip stick, do not add any more oil. There is a Ford service bulletin that says that. I'll post it if you want it.
After the first drain, you will be able to shut off the flow with the Fumoto valve. I drain right into gallon jugs that I take to a recycle spot. The valve is also real handy if you want to take a sample for analysis. Most of the auto parts stores carry the large capacity drain pans.
Oil Drain Procedures
Make sure not to put in more than 13.5 quarts on refilling. After running for a minute or two after refilling, let it sit for about 15 mins and check the oil level. If it is in the crosshatched area of the dip stick, do not add any more oil. There is a Ford service bulletin that says that. I'll post it if you want it.
After the first drain, you will be able to shut off the flow with the Fumoto valve. I drain right into gallon jugs that I take to a recycle spot. The valve is also real handy if you want to take a sample for analysis. Most of the auto parts stores carry the large capacity drain pans.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 142
Likes: 1
From: Parkton, Maryland
SBV45
Thanks for the Instructions.....printed and stuck in my "helpful tips from FTE" binder!!
I Plan to sample and send to Blackstone labs so The fumoto valve is a must.
Thanx
Trevor
Thanks for the Instructions.....printed and stuck in my "helpful tips from FTE" binder!!
I Plan to sample and send to Blackstone labs so The fumoto valve is a must.
Thanx
Trevor
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 142
Likes: 1
From: Parkton, Maryland
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Their filters don't clean oil very well but I like the idea of tapping into the stock filter lid. I have done a few 6.0's by teeing off at the oil pressure switch just behind the stock filter. The newer Powerstrokes use a hydraulic type fitting on the pressure switch. I use a fitting to adapt to a 1/8" brass tee and a fitting to adapt from the tee to the oil pressure switch. I return the oil to the fill neck with a saddle fitting.
I ordered Cummins Fleetguard filters for the diesel pickups. These are the big filters that you see on construction equipment. Their best element is the LF750. I am adapting the housing to also take three rolls of Kleenex VIVA paper towels. The little filters have to be changed often to keep the wear rate down. The big Cummins Fleetguard filter holds about 4 gallons of oil and can go a long ways between changes. If you have a filter that cleans oil you shouldn't need the oil drain valve. To eliminate routine oil drains requires that the oil be clean 100% of the time plus enough new oil added at filter change to keep the additives up and the soot that is too small to be filtered out to a safe level. After all the sales hype the rules are the same. The better the filter and the smaller the filter the more often it needs to be changed. If you are going to invest in a filter it is best if it filters down to under one micron.
You might find the following of interest:
"EnviroSense
Department of Defense
Pollution Prevention Technical Library
Bypass Filter for Vehicle Motor Oil Introduction:
Gasoline and diesel fueled internal combustion engines require
lubricating oil to reduce friction and dissipate heat. The lubricating oil must be changed once the oil's effectiveness diminishes. Lubricating effectiveness generally does not deteriorate in high-quality oils, but what does occur is contamination of the oil with particles and a breakdown of the lubricating oil's additive package. The additive package, which can be 50 percent of the oil's volume is responsible for maintaining pH and preventing deterioration of the oil. Bypass filters are designed to remove smaller particulate than would normally be removed by the engine's normal filter so that oil changes are not necessary. Oil added during filter changing, and to replace burned oil, is normally sufficient to replenish the oil's additive package."
Ralph
I ordered Cummins Fleetguard filters for the diesel pickups. These are the big filters that you see on construction equipment. Their best element is the LF750. I am adapting the housing to also take three rolls of Kleenex VIVA paper towels. The little filters have to be changed often to keep the wear rate down. The big Cummins Fleetguard filter holds about 4 gallons of oil and can go a long ways between changes. If you have a filter that cleans oil you shouldn't need the oil drain valve. To eliminate routine oil drains requires that the oil be clean 100% of the time plus enough new oil added at filter change to keep the additives up and the soot that is too small to be filtered out to a safe level. After all the sales hype the rules are the same. The better the filter and the smaller the filter the more often it needs to be changed. If you are going to invest in a filter it is best if it filters down to under one micron.
You might find the following of interest:
"EnviroSense
Department of Defense
Pollution Prevention Technical Library
Bypass Filter for Vehicle Motor Oil Introduction:
Gasoline and diesel fueled internal combustion engines require
lubricating oil to reduce friction and dissipate heat. The lubricating oil must be changed once the oil's effectiveness diminishes. Lubricating effectiveness generally does not deteriorate in high-quality oils, but what does occur is contamination of the oil with particles and a breakdown of the lubricating oil's additive package. The additive package, which can be 50 percent of the oil's volume is responsible for maintaining pH and preventing deterioration of the oil. Bypass filters are designed to remove smaller particulate than would normally be removed by the engine's normal filter so that oil changes are not necessary. Oil added during filter changing, and to replace burned oil, is normally sufficient to replenish the oil's additive package."
Ralph
Last edited by Ralph Wood; Sep 4, 2004 at 10:25 PM.
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From: Central Texas
Originally Posted by f250meangreen
sbv45, can I see that bulletin. I have not seen it yet and would like to review it.
This is just a summary. It is hard to get the whole thing as Ford has them copyrighted.
Oil Level Check Tip:
When checking the oil level on the 6.0, the vehicle must be on a level surface and the dipstick must be fully seated into the tube to ensure an accuarte reading. Do not add oil if the level is above the "MIN" line on the dipstick. Broadcast Message 1512, 1574.
When checking the oil level on the 6.0, the vehicle must be on a level surface and the dipstick must be fully seated into the tube to ensure an accuarte reading. Do not add oil if the level is above the "MIN" line on the dipstick. Broadcast Message 1512, 1574.
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Originally Posted by Chopperbob
Where do you mount a 4 gal oil filter in a P/U?
What is a saddle fitting? do you have to drill to install?
Chopperbob
What is a saddle fitting? do you have to drill to install?
Chopperbob
The 8.3 has the turbo return tube that I can tap into. It has a pipe plug in the oil pan. I can tap into the tube the fill cap goes into. I don't like the newer corrugated turbo return tubes. I did a new Cummins where I punched a hole in the tube where the corrugations end.
The saddle clamp is similar to the saddle valve that you use to tap into a water line to add an ice maker or water filter. I make my own heavy duty models. The fitting reaches into the tube thru a hole that must be drilled or punched. Punching doesn't put metal filings in the engine. I put a little high temp RTV on the fitting. I like to use Perma-Cool sandwich adapters on the engines with the small full flow filters. The sandwich adapters return the clean oil to the full flow filter inlet. This would be a problem with the big filters because you have a lot of air from the empty filter. It will only work for small filters or big filters that can be primed after changing the element. I drill the sandwich adapters to reduce the resistance thru the adapter. 7/32" will work fine. For the Cummins Dodge engines I have to adapt them to fit the 1"-16 threads.
After 40 years it's still a new experience every time I install one of these filters. The good thing is they seem to appeal to people that understand engines.
Ralph
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Posts: 4,483
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From: Central Texas
Originally Posted by Chopperbob
Where do you mount a 4 gal oil filter in a P/U?
What is a saddle fitting? do you have to drill to install?
Chopperbob
What is a saddle fitting? do you have to drill to install?
Chopperbob
In a 6.0 powered pickup? That is more than what is in the pan. Assuming you mean gallon, why would you?