80 F250 stutters when accelerating
New User
Joined: Sep 2004
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From what I can tell my EGR is fine. Like you said I am not sure if the vacume lines are all set up correct. I am like the 4th owner of this vehicle. i see if I can get some pictures and e-mail them to you. I think that you can get a carb kit for around $60.00 dollars but I in the same situation that If I take it apart I won't be able to set it up to run smooth. Also does anyone know where the temp sensing unit is located on this motor I need to stick in an after market temp gauge in as the stock one on the truck doesn't work. Thanks for any help on this.
Senior User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 167
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From: Omaha, NE
If it's running pretty good except for the "dying" on acceleration,
you may be able to get away with just replacing the accelerator
pump...
Do you know what carb you have on the truck?
If it's a Holley, changing the accelerator pump diaphragm is not
tough at all!
Scott
you may be able to get away with just replacing the accelerator
pump...
Do you know what carb you have on the truck?
If it's a Holley, changing the accelerator pump diaphragm is not
tough at all!
Scott
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2000
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Stuttering
No idea what the carb is. I am not even certain the engine is original.
Originally Posted by Clifford II
If it's running pretty good except for the "dying" on acceleration,
you may be able to get away with just replacing the accelerator
pump...
Do you know what carb you have on the truck?
If it's a Holley, changing the accelerator pump diaphragm is not
tough at all!
Scott
you may be able to get away with just replacing the accelerator
pump...
Do you know what carb you have on the truck?
If it's a Holley, changing the accelerator pump diaphragm is not
tough at all!
Scott
Senior User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 167
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From: Omaha, NE
Originally Posted by niteowl
No idea what the carb is. I am not even certain the engine is original.
Look it over a little, if it's a Holley, it'll have the Holley name on it.
Scott
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Senior User
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Carb rebuild
I will have to look it over when I get home. It is currently parked in the back yard. I gave up working on it until I could get a better idea of what I needed to look for. In the meantime my plates expired and I canceled the insurance so I cannot even take it out for a test drive if I get it running. 
Originally Posted by Clifford II
Can you get a pic of the carb?
Look it over a little, if it's a Holley, it'll have the Holley name on it.
Scott
Look it over a little, if it's a Holley, it'll have the Holley name on it.
Scott
New User
Joined: Sep 2004
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I think that I have ther original carb on ther truck 2barrell. after I get going from a stop the truck has no problems. It runs just fine. after I run the truck for a while even the hesitation isnt so bad. or maybe it's just me. Do you have any ideas on if it's hard to stick in after market temp gauge in.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 585
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From: Willis, Texas
1980F250...
Sounds kinda like your choke is sticking...maybe. I would take some carb and choke cleaner, take the air cleaner off. See if the choke butterfly is sticky. If it is, then spray it down and let it dry before you fire it up.
Niteowl,
You will need some numbers from the carb to get the proper rebuild kit. These carbs, either Holly OR Motorcraft (which are skillfull replicas of holleys) aren't too bad to rebuild. Just remember that when you are going through it, don't spare any spray carburator cleaner...if its a port, then shoot it. Wear safety glasses or somthing over your eyes, too...the two hardest things you will have to do is set the float level and pre-set the mixture adjustment. These two items will have instructions in the kit. I believe the mix is universal, where you take the two mix screws all the way in, and back out two full turns. then, when your on the truck, use your ears. listen for the idle to smooth out, keep going slowly, and when it begins to stumble again, go back in with it 1/4 turn.
Also remember that you might have two aluminum plugs over the mix screws. might have to pry them out. thats no biggie.
DB
Sounds kinda like your choke is sticking...maybe. I would take some carb and choke cleaner, take the air cleaner off. See if the choke butterfly is sticky. If it is, then spray it down and let it dry before you fire it up.
Niteowl,
You will need some numbers from the carb to get the proper rebuild kit. These carbs, either Holly OR Motorcraft (which are skillfull replicas of holleys) aren't too bad to rebuild. Just remember that when you are going through it, don't spare any spray carburator cleaner...if its a port, then shoot it. Wear safety glasses or somthing over your eyes, too...the two hardest things you will have to do is set the float level and pre-set the mixture adjustment. These two items will have instructions in the kit. I believe the mix is universal, where you take the two mix screws all the way in, and back out two full turns. then, when your on the truck, use your ears. listen for the idle to smooth out, keep going slowly, and when it begins to stumble again, go back in with it 1/4 turn.
Also remember that you might have two aluminum plugs over the mix screws. might have to pry them out. thats no biggie.
DB
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DB_tanker thanks I will check this. It is starting to become annoying. The truck runs good when it gets going. it's just trying to get it going from a stop sign that makes it so much fun to drive. You by chance don't know where the temp sending unit is on a 351 do you. I need to stick an after market temp gage in. The one in the cab doesnt work.
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Senior User
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DB_tanker, thanks for the info. If I can get myself motivated I may work on it this weekend. Rain is supposed to continue here for the next 5-6 days though and I do not have a dry place to work. In fact, I have to walk around in the tall wet grass to get at the truck right now. *Sigh*
Looking into what it would cost to add an addition to the house that would give me a two car basement garage. I would really love to have a dry, level place to work. Every time I have to move an engine around I am fighting the slope of the driveway.
Looking into what it would cost to add an addition to the house that would give me a two car basement garage. I would really love to have a dry, level place to work. Every time I have to move an engine around I am fighting the slope of the driveway.
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I have a Haynes manual around someplace that should show the location of the temp sender. I will try to remember to look for it when I get home tonight. I can ALMOST remember where it is since I only just put the engine back into the truck about 6 weeks ago, but somehow I just cannot get the mental picture.
I think there are really only two sensors, the temp sensor and the oil pressure sensor so it should be relatively easy to find.
I have to get myself one reliable vehicle and then ONLY work on my 1960. It is so simple in design that most everything is easy to diagnose and repair or at least not tremendously expensive.
I think there are really only two sensors, the temp sensor and the oil pressure sensor so it should be relatively easy to find.
I have to get myself one reliable vehicle and then ONLY work on my 1960. It is so simple in design that most everything is easy to diagnose and repair or at least not tremendously expensive.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 585
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From: Willis, Texas
1980F250,
I have to say that off the top of my head, no I don't know....but I would recommend looking either near the T-stat housing or on the intake. I don't think it would be on the block...that would be your oil pressure sensor.
DB
I have to say that off the top of my head, no I don't know....but I would recommend looking either near the T-stat housing or on the intake. I don't think it would be on the block...that would be your oil pressure sensor.
DB
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 517
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From: Texas
1980F250 Temperature Sending Unit
Most Ford V8 coolant temperature sending units are located on the forward water jacket on the intake manifold. The only exceptions that I am aware of are the 351C, 351M and 400 blocks. Those temperature sending units are located on the timing block (not cover) front right side of engine. Normally it is the sending unit that goes bad, not the gauge.