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4.0 Engine removal tips?

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Old Apr 6, 2002 | 12:23 PM
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MO51
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Post 4.0 Engine removal tips?

I'm OK with overhauling the 4.0 when the time comes, but have never shoehorned an engine out or into a 96 Aerostar. How big a deal is this? My Haynes gives the recipe, but I'd like any tips you have for my "gonna need to do this someday file." Also, your thoughts on what else to replace while the motor is out of the way. I plan to keep this van (only 110K)forever. Thank you.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2002 | 05:30 PM
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4.0 Engine removal tips?

I can't offer much advice on the removal except to think it obviously must come out the bottom. However, I definitely suggest replacing the starter and having the radiator "rodded" (not just tanked). New or rebuilt engines have more friction and your borderline starter will probably soon give out and your engine will likely run on the hot side.

Mark

 
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Old Apr 9, 2002 | 08:23 PM
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Post 4.0 Engine removal tips?

Thanks for the tips.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2002 | 06:34 PM
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4.0 Engine removal tips?

The engine can come out from the top, but you'll have to remove the radiator, grill and AC condenser according to the shop manual. While the engine is out, I would replace the heater hoses. Also, get your fuel injectors ultrasonically cleaned, tested and replace the o-rings, pintle caps and filter baskets. One thing I learned when I replaced my heads was to leave the temp sender alone if it works. I figured I would save myself the aggravation and replace it, but the one I replaced it with read real hot, which scared me when I first fired up the engine after putting it together. Then, I replaced the sender with the old one and it read normal. While you have access to the torque converter, you might consider replacing the torque converter seal.

If you can't get the exhaust system disconnected from the exhaust manifolds, don't waste a heck of a lot of time trying to get the bolts out. Either twist the heads off with an impact wrench or cut the bolts with a Dremel tool. I wasted about 5 hours trying to get the bolts out without breaking them and then resorted to cutting them. Consider getting the exhaust manifold flanges ground flat. That way you can put them on without gaskets like the factory does and won't need to worry about replacing a blown exhaust manifold gasket in the future.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2002 | 10:04 PM
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Post 4.0 Engine removal tips?

Thanks for your great tips, they're going into my "future" file.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2002 | 12:10 PM
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4.0 Engine removal tips?

I just recently overhauled the 3 liter in my 95 Aerostar. I removed the engine by lowering it down and under the truck. First tho, I removed the intake, heads (remove the heads with the exhaust manifolds attached) and anything else to make it as compact as possible. I left the trans attached and removed it along with the "short block" as a unit. The radiator of course was removed but all the a/c was left intact along with the power steering pump and pressure hose. Just have to disconnect the return line on the power steering punp to give you enough room to put it out of the way. I extended my crane to it's longest reach and put a sling around the front of the motor and attached the hook from the crane at that point. I used my floor jack under the rear of the trans. I jacked up the motor just high enough to clear the motor mounts and let the unit roll back about a foot. I placed a furniture dolly under the engine/trans combo and lowered the unit onto the dolly. This is where I discovered that I needed to have the front of the truck at the crossmember 25 inches from the ground!!! (I had 19 inches). I then seperated the engine from the trans. Took me about 3 1/2 hours to remove the engine and about 20 minutes to install the engine/trans combo back into the truck. No way was I going to drop the whole front crossmember and front suspension! Any Q's. drop me an email
 
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Old Sep 5, 2002 | 10:57 PM
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4.0 Engine removal tips?

 
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