Hey guys. Today I spent the better part of the day ohming out the wiring for my tailgate window. I checked the fuse, dash switch, dash switch wiring, grounds, key switch, key switch wiring...everything...it all checked out good and voltages were correct aswell. I had 12VDC at the connection that supplies the motor with power...after all this, the window still wont go up or down...yet, if i connected the window motor directly to the battery...it went up and down fine.

The reason I tell you all this...is if you are having the same problem and nothing seems to fix it - check your connections! I bought some electrical connection cleaner ($5.00) and dielectric grease ($3.00) and cleaned/prepped that last connection...window works like a charm from the dash switch and the key switch.

I did choose to bypass the latch safety sensor just incase it decided it was going to make me do the job all over again in the future. For that I just took a 4" piece of 18AWG wire, terminated both ends with flat terminals and plugged either end into the connector (filled with dielectric grease) for the latch safety sensor, thus bypassing it completely.

Things I gathered - FYI:
- I worked with the window extended (up), supported by two foldout chairs and a comforter and tailgate down...just fyi.

- If your power door locks work...your fuse is good.

- The keyswitch does not unplug...an easy way to ohm out the switch is to connect your multimeter leads to the corresponding wire up at the dash switch harness with a wire shorting out the connector to the motor...you cannot ohm through a motor and get continuity.

- Manually depressing the keyswitch contacts (with the keyswitch disconnected from the tailgate) is a lot easier for one person to do (if you don't have a helper to turn the key for you.)

Most of this might sound gee-whiz...but I hope atleast one of you guys find that this helps you out.

 

its nice to know there some other creativepeople out there. i had the same problem and after being rained on sunburned and genreally frustrated for the better part of two days i went and bought some dielectric grease and smeared it in there and sure enough window up and down just fine. now i gotta get some new rollers cuz i lost the left one in the gravel somewhere. oh well just another lump in a sea of poo

 

my auto door locks do not work, also my lumbar support does not work either my fuse is fine. my tailgate latch where the saftey switch is for the rear window was broken so i had to push the tailgate in and had somebody operate the switch to move the window up or down. i had the latch replaced and the saftey switch comes with the latch. now the window wont go up or down without putting direct power to my motor. what happened? should i just bypass that saftey switch? i just put jumper wire in the plug that plugs into the saftey switch? any info would be great. maybe i should try the electic grease, i thaught it came pre lubed from the factory.

 

Bronco 94

I had an intermittant problem with my 96 where the electric door locks and lumbar would not work and rear window would not operate with key in tailgate on from dash button. Also the electric 4X4 switch on the dash would not work. The 20A breaker in the fuse panel would get too hot to touch. Problem turned out to be a broken wire in the lumbar connector under the passenger seat. The hot wire would short to ground on the seat frame causing the problem. Took me a while to figure it out.

 

thanks a lot i will check it out.