[updated:LAST EDITED ON 02-Nov-02 AT 09:43 AM (EST)]I am going to replace the heater core for my 4.0 aerostar. I had fabricated the tool to disconnect the hose from the heater. However I had never done this before. Do I have to put new seals after? How hard is it to disconnect the hose? Anything else need to watch out? Thanks in advance.

 

The hoses can be buggers to remove. I too, fabricated a tool but could not get the hoses to release easily. The top hose I finally just reached back in and squeezed with fingers and it released. The lower hose is more difficult because the upper pipe on the core restricts access. The lower eventually released with the tool, but it required far more effort and time than should be necessary. I believe AutoZone may have a loaner tool. There are also other postings where removal, even with the correct tool, has been difficult.

Removing the core entailed removing several other items not listed in the Chilton manual, such as the inertia switch and several other electrical components near the right side kick panel. Either blow out the core with air pressure or cover your carpets, as you will spill residual antifreeze by the time you finally release the core.

You will need a new connector kit which has the plastic cages as well as the new seals. I found putting the plastic cage and seal into the hose first then fitting it over the core pipe seemed to work better than the other way around. The replacement kit is available from any Ford parts counter and is relatively inexpensive as I recall. (around $10).

Measure your new core against the old before replacing. The first replacement turn out to be a universal style that was slightly undersized and did not fit snugly in place.

 

Thanks Aerocolorado:
It was exactly the same that happened to me. I had the heater core replaced yesterday because the weather warm up a little here in Toronto to allow me to work outside on my driveway.. It tooked me about 3 hours to disconnect the hoses using my homemade tool which did not quite work. (It tooked me only about five minutes to reconnect them to the heater after).I also had to remove the A/C dryer to gain access. My A/C did not work before and was empty.
Yes I had to remove the inertia switch; clear the area arond there and pull the lower instrument panel out a bit to take the heater out. It is not fun at all. My old heater is 1/4 clog up so that cold air got blow through the heater along with hot air. I found that out after I removed the heater cover,run the engine and turn on the fan; I touched the heater all over and found that the bottom 1/4 porton was cold. Also the heater is aluminium. I called Ford and Canadian Tire but they both had to order one in. I then went to the junk yard and got one for $20. There I also had the opportunity to test my homemade tool first and found out I had to remove the inertia switch etc.I found the one also is aluminium and I think it is factory made. I am lucky this heater works and it even seems tougher built than the copper aftermaket one. Now the only thing is that I have to wait for my sore fingers to heal.

 

Sore fingers - yes now that you mention it I recall my fingers and hands all nicked to pieces from reaching aroung that A/C drier. Congratulations on the fix. My old one had a pinhole leak and I used some JB Weld to seal it. I'm holding on to it for a backup if needed.