Thickness of front discs?
#1
#6
Im talking about the actual thickness of the pad, not including the metal plate that backs the pad. I know that 2/32nds is also 1/16, but at the garages Ive worked at we measured everything in 32nds. It is the same as your tire tread depth, which in VA, if its below 2/32nds, it not inspectable. Some brake pads will have rivets in them, which can also be used to judge when you need to replace them.
#7
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#9
Originally Posted by beartracks
It's almost allways cast into the disc somewhere. It may be hard to find but it's possible aftermarket units might have a different minimum.
Originally Posted by wckdclwn911
or you can say 2/32nds, or roughly the distance from the top of a penny, to lincolns hair , Im talking about the actual thickness of the pad,
I do not think they are even bonding pad's to the metal plate any more unless you got a lightweight JAP car or something, there were to many problem's with the bonding breaking loose.
#10
Originally Posted by ranger429
I think all the aftermarket brake rotor's are set at the same minimum thickness as to what is original equipment spec's. Usually on the inside of the rotor on the hub by the fin's is where they cast the minimum thickness.
Where do you buy your brake pad's? Take a look at a penny and tell me that is how thick your pad material is. The actual pad is more like a 1/4" of actual pad thickness. The rivet head itself is about 2/32".
I do not think they are even bonding pad's to the metal plate any more unless you got a lightweight JAP car or something, there were to many problem's with the bonding breaking loose.
Where do you buy your brake pad's? Take a look at a penny and tell me that is how thick your pad material is. The actual pad is more like a 1/4" of actual pad thickness. The rivet head itself is about 2/32".
I do not think they are even bonding pad's to the metal plate any more unless you got a lightweight JAP car or something, there were to many problem's with the bonding breaking loose.
#11
Originally Posted by ranger429
I do not think they are even bonding pad's to the metal plate any more unless you got a lightweight JAP car or something, there were to many problem's with the bonding breaking loose.
I saw a rotor once where the customer let a riveted pad grind for about a week. the braking surface was completely gone. Worn all the way down to the rotor vents. I had to look at it for a few minutes to recognize it as a rotor.
#12
Originally Posted by andym
Most quality pads are bonded. In fact, you want to stay away from the riveted pads, because if you let them grind at all, you *will* be buying a new rotor.
I saw a rotor once where the customer let a riveted pad grind for about a week. the braking surface was completely gone. Worn all the way down to the rotor vents. I had to look at it for a few minutes to recognize it as a rotor.
I saw a rotor once where the customer let a riveted pad grind for about a week. the braking surface was completely gone. Worn all the way down to the rotor vents. I had to look at it for a few minutes to recognize it as a rotor.
#13
CrazyAirman, I sold a lot of part's back in the 80's and all I saw returned was the bonded pad's coming back on account of seperation. Maybe they have changed there "gluing" method. I still do quite a few brake job's and I have yet to see a set of bonded pad's come over the counter from the part's man for a chebby or a FORD, in fact my sister just brought over a set for her grand am that I have to change, they are riveted as well. With 6 or 8 rivet's in a brake pad they can heat crack but the chance's of the broken pad falling out are quite slim as the rivet's will still hold it in place somewhat.