I just bought a Hoppy brake controller and harness that just plugged right in my 96 f150. It seems ok for 50 bucks with harness....

 

I would sugest the pendulum controllers over the time based controllers, I tow an rv and this seams to work well. I have a fairly basic pendulum model, I think around 80.00.

 

Tekonsha Prodigy. If your trailer has electric brakes, it will control them. I believe that they have a wide range of plugs and adaptors available too. My truck was prewired from Ford so I didn't have much work to do.

The Prodigy is solid state and doesn't have to be installed level and diddled with a lot to get it set and ready to use. Just follow the straightforward instructions and you are off and running - or rather, stopping

My trailer by the way is a triple axle toyhauler and the Prodigy works fine with that.

 

Before you spend money for any controller you owe it to yourself to check out BRAKESMART. I have had BRAKESMART controllers on my last 2 trucks and they are fantastic. They work by measuring the actual brake pressure from the master cylinder. The unit taps into your brake system in about 30 minutes and is totally adjustable. The BRAKESMART is probably the most expensive but I think it is also the best. NO I don't sell them, I just like them a lot !! Good luck..Greg

 

I truly feel the Prodigy is without equal! You get it and you will be set! It doesn't take a rocket scientist, an electrical engineer, nor a degree from MIT to install it nor set it up to stop. It is not as expensive as some controllers but I feel it is worth its weight in gold!

 

This looks Good

 

Prodigy was totally painless. Came with all required components including the wiring harness that plugged right into my '04. Took 10 minutes to install. Probably less. Best controller I've ever used. Never once locked up the brakes. And, if I wanted to, I could swap it over to my Windstar in about the same time.

You can't go wrong with this set up. I even got free fed ex shipping on it.

Dan

 

Where did you buy yours?

 

I bought my Tek 9035 at brakecontroller.com div. of Southwest wheel. They were the cheapest for any controller at the time. Going with the Prodigy in my newer truck though. Last research showed that hitchesonline.com had them for $110 + $15.24 shipping reg. UPS. Just bought a Turnoverball hitch there for $370 total. If the trailer has electric brakes any electric controller will work but all aren't consistent or easy to set up for loaded/unloaded trailers etc. Some older trailers have different types of brakes such vacuum over hydraulic or electri/hydraulic and some of these require you to tap into the master cylinder. But today even 20K tandem dual trailers can be bought with electric brakes. I use a 6 wire round plug but any can be used. 4 wire flat would need some help to run brakes though. You have lights, right, left, and ground. On a 6 wire you can add auxilary for interior lighting or other electrical outlet and the trailer brakes. RVs use the 7 spade type. For 4 wire you just run the wire beside the connector and use any type wire connector to make do but I'd go to the larger plug in.

 

In my opinion, Tim Ervin has some good and helpful and useful advice in his post; however, in his post he says: "I use a 6-wire round plug but any could be used." That particular sentence, I believe, should have some clarification. First of all, obviously, the trailer connector on the truck MUST match the connector on the trailer--or, vice-versa. Secondly, both connectors must have a circuit for trailer brakes. Thirdly, the circuit for the trailer brakes must be able to carry the current voltage required to operate the brakes as the controller dictates. That current amount is dictated by the size of and number of the trailer brakes, the available current the controller will allow the system to supply, and the weight of the trailer which must be stopped.
If one goes through several of the posts in this particular forum, you will see sage advice about doing it correctly the FIRST time. Braking is one field in which one simply cannot take any short cuts!
Modern electric brake systems are really good ones. Most of them WILL stop the towing truck and the trailer using ONLY the electric brakes if such is required. BUT, they HAVE to be set up CORRECTLY in order to do so!

 

I only pull farm type trailers-flatbed, livestock, etc. I generally wire my own trailers also. I use the heaviest plug that I will need on my truck (6 round) and convert my trailers over to that style. If I pulled a boat trailer or something that only had 4 wires, I'd still convert it over. The plugs are cheaper (and easier to keep up with) than adapters. Now if I pulled an RV I might go to the 7 spade or use an adapter. And yes you should use the correct gauge wire, depending on the load and length required. My F250 has a 4 flat and 6 round both but my F350 only has the 6 round. So I make it convenient for myself. Nothing technical about it, just personal preference. More important is the quality of the wiring installation. Make good connections and I like to seal with liquid tape or better yet solder and cover with heat shrink tubing and enclose in spiral wrap. Bad connections or wiring that isn't secured/protected will most definitely cause problems down the road. BTW, My father has '01 Sd w/ 7 spade. Borrowed my stock trailer and used his "adapter". He has no brake controller but the trailer was only 5x14 so he was okay. But he put the adapter on upside down. There is a slot but it can be pushed on incorrectly. With his lights on, the trailer brakes had direct current and were locked up. With the PSD torque though, he never realized it until he hit the pavement. He thought the brakes were bad (?) so he just cut the wires to the brakes. He could have unplug them but ... I'm sure there was some kind of excuse. The trailer was only 2 months old. So even if everything is done right, there can (and probably will) be problems.

 

Another vote for Tekonsha! I've moved mine to 4 different trucks and has worked well for me! From Travel trailers, Goosenecks (haul antique tractors), to 20' pull behinds it was a good purchase!

 

I have tried so many and they all work basically. I just bought a new 04 F350 and decided to buy something "new" so I got a digital style controller. I have to say it is much different than the others. I like that the "brain" is under the dash and not required to mount any certain direction. The control is a small (size of an audio cassette) control that is on a phone cord style lead. It is slick, and digital. I have used it a dozen times and I really like the digital / numeric controls for brake pressure and how aggressive they are applied. I bought my set on eBay but I forget where. Somewhere in Ohio if I remember. Here is a link to the same unit at another store.

http://www.reese-hitches.com/elec_br...ig_remote.html

 

A brake controller factory representative once made a presentation at an RV show; he said something I try to always remember and to take heed: ALWAYS buy the best and most powerful brake controller you can afford--even if it is another manufacturer's--PLEASE, never take a risk. While, as I posted above, surely prefer a Prodigy; I would always buy and use the very best I possibly could. It has seemed to me that the posts in this thread have all been of the "this is what I recommend" variety and none of that "my brand is better than x brand" arguing. That surely reflects the seriousness of what we have discussed.

Why do I post this?

In part, since I joined FTE, I have read posts by a lot of nice people; everybody seems to try to be helpful. I would hate to learn that one of the folks here was inadvertantly injured--or worse--by an accident.

 

Another vote for Tekonsha! Somebody on here said it would take ten minutes to install. I strongly disagree, as mine took 20 minutes to install. But I had to move some alarm stuff out of the way.

That wiring harness is a must have. I ordered the thing about a week ago on-line for about $120 total shipped with harness. Can't believe it was so easy to install. I even mounted the alarm light to the side of the bracket and didn't have to drill any new holes. Prodigy rules.