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4" to 2" blocks

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Old Aug 24, 2004 | 02:07 PM
  #1  
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From: colorado
4" to 2" blocks

My 99 f250 superduty has 4" inch blocks between the springs and the rear axle. Is there any reason i can't switch them out for 2". Would i need to get different u-bolts? I don't see any reason for the rear to be so high, i don't tow anything real heavy and it's kinda hard getting stuff in the box.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2004 | 02:08 PM
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From: colorado
could i do no blocks?

sorry for the double post
 
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Old Aug 24, 2004 | 05:12 PM
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Big Orn
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From: NE Texas
Originally Posted by sillyp
My 99 f250 superduty has 4" inch blocks between the springs and the rear axle. Is there any reason i can't switch them out for 2".
Yes
Would i need to get different u-bolts?
Yes
I don't see any reason for the rear to be so high, i don't tow anything real heavy and it's kinda hard getting stuff in the box.
You don't even need the blocks if that's what you want, but get new ubolts and take that spacer off your carrier bearing.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2004 | 06:16 PM
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From: colorado
where could i find new u bolts? stealership?
 
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Old Aug 25, 2004 | 06:44 AM
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Originally Posted by sillyp
where could i find new u bolts? stealership?
Anywhere auto parts are sold that deal in trucks parts, really. We have several machine shops and a blacksmith shop around here, so ubolts are easy to get.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2004 | 09:55 AM
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If the 4" blocks are tapered I would replace them with 2" blocks with taper. No blocks -you may have to mount some steel shims to correct for taper.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2004 | 10:21 AM
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From: colorado
I'm thinking i'll go with 2" blocks, about $40 from the strealership. would i have to change anything on the carrier bearing with that configuration? Forgive me, i'm new to the world of trucks, but the carrier bearing is on the drive shaft, right?
 
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Old Aug 25, 2004 | 11:33 PM
  #8  
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When I changed by 2004 F350 4X4 SB CC from 4" to 2", I was able to reuse the old u-bolts, and my blocks were NOT tapered. I had originally gotten new u-bolts for the installation, but it turned out the ones I got were too short, and with the truck already disassembled, I just put the old ones back on and screwed down the bolts further. There were plenty of threads left still. I didn't need to change the drive shaft bearings anywhere, and all is fine.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2004 | 09:40 AM
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Do you want to sell those 4" blocks? Mine's got the 2" and I want more out of it.

Shoot me an email if you're interested in getting rid of them

chris.manning@kickstartoem.com
 
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Old Aug 26, 2004 | 10:25 AM
  #10  
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From: colorado
apparently i need 3 more post before i can send you an email

but yeah, i'll prolly be willing to sell them. it would be nice if we could just trade, but i'm not sure about the logistics of that. not like i'm gonna leave my truck on jackstands for a week while i'm waiting on parts!
 
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Old Aug 26, 2004 | 03:24 PM
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NOt smaller... BIGGER!

I had the same problem! I was told the 4 Inch blocks are part of the CAMPER PACKAGE! (4 Inch.... too high in the rear) Rather then Replacing them with 2" I went the other direction. I added a 2 " leveling kit to the front. Basically it is a leaf kit system that adds 2" of lift to front only! I LOVE IT! My truck now looks like a truck! And I had room for 33" tires which is a nice BONUS!

(*note: I lost 2 miles per gallon immediately.......LOL!)

I got the kit from www.jackit.com ($240)
 
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