89 Ranger no start
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From: Culpeper, VA
All the connectors fit a standard Ford scanner, so the basic wiring has to be the same. I circled in on your picture which hole you need to connect the end of the jumper wire to. The other end connects to the STI connector (see arrow).
Note: I'm not sure your digital meter has a quick enough response time to indicate codes, but like I said you shouldn't need a meter at all if the Check Engine light blinks.
Note: I'm not sure your digital meter has a quick enough response time to indicate codes, but like I said you shouldn't need a meter at all if the Check Engine light blinks.
Last edited by PyroBandito; Aug 24, 2004 at 11:45 PM.
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All I am getting is a steady on check engine light, a constant test light on, and no fluctuation on a meter???
I checked the specs on my digital meter and the digital bar display updates 20 times per second, just to be sure as I bought it for this type of testing, is that fast enough? I also found another wire that has been cut and spliced before and I don't know where it goes yet. It is in the wire bundle with the coolant temp sensor and oil pressure sensor. The wire appears to be tan/orange color. It has a butt splice on it that has been pulled apart from somewhere. Any ideas?
Thanks people, I really appreciate the help!
I checked the specs on my digital meter and the digital bar display updates 20 times per second, just to be sure as I bought it for this type of testing, is that fast enough? I also found another wire that has been cut and spliced before and I don't know where it goes yet. It is in the wire bundle with the coolant temp sensor and oil pressure sensor. The wire appears to be tan/orange color. It has a butt splice on it that has been pulled apart from somewhere. Any ideas?
Thanks people, I really appreciate the help!
Last edited by cavemanhands; Aug 25, 2004 at 02:16 PM.
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you shouldn't even need the meter. the CEL should do it, but if it dont, you can actually take a ground fault tester and use it as a CEL, right next to the test harness. If your CEL is constant after being keyed, you're just not in diagnostic mode, OR your computer is not being powered correctly to be PUT into diagnostic mode. Check that first before attempting a code read again.
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thanks lala, is there a diagram or something that will show me what voltage readings I should get and where on the EEC? I have 12 volts at the test connector but not sure which pins to check on the EEC. The light is steady on after being keyed on. So your saying that there is definately a voltage problem with the EEC? Makes sense to me. This is also why I think there is a grounding problem, I know how erratic computerized systems can act with that kind of problem. I would love to have a full wiring diagram!
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not quite sure but would this help?
http://fords.kilonet.org/ken00/1988T...tionSystem.doc
you can replace the meter with a ground fault tester (or just a 12v test light).
Digi meters (even the fast ones) i find for this applications can be a pain in the rump sometimes for counting the flashes.
Also, it never hurts to have a hayes manual. best 5 bucks i ever spent at the time. It will include everthing you could need for this, but don't be fooled, cause it does skip little things most people dont know.
good luck
lala
http://fords.kilonet.org/ken00/1988T...tionSystem.doc
you can replace the meter with a ground fault tester (or just a 12v test light).
Digi meters (even the fast ones) i find for this applications can be a pain in the rump sometimes for counting the flashes.
Also, it never hurts to have a hayes manual. best 5 bucks i ever spent at the time. It will include everthing you could need for this, but don't be fooled, cause it does skip little things most people dont know.
good luck
lala
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From: Culpeper, VA
If the CEL comes on briefly when you start the truck I'm pretty sure that means the EEC is getting power.
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From: Culpeper, VA
I'd say 20 times/sec should be a fast enough refresh rate. I think if you can pull the codes you can solve this problem because it sounds like a sensor thing. Oh, do you have you MAP sensor hooked up? I know thats essential for the computer's fuel calculations; probably the TPS too. The The idle air control valve and oxygen sensor are important to make it idle, but that shouldn't prevent you from revving up. I know there's an air charge temperature sensor too, but I don't remember what it's for cause I don't have my manual with me.
Last edited by PyroBandito; Aug 25, 2004 at 10:27 PM.
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ok, heres the update so far... All the sensors are hooked up with appropriate vacuum, although I believe I have a low vacuum scenerio due to other disconnected lines. Grounds are all hooked up as far as I can tell, there are 3 grounds by the battery that tie into the wiring harness and all are good connections. I was looking at the injector wiring harness and matching a wiring diagram I have from Mitchell, it says the harness wires are all basiclly wired together for 3 and 3, ie... cylinders 2,4 & 1 all have white and red wires while 6,5,& 3 have tan and red wires. The truck has tan and red wires for 3 and green and red for 3, can anyone verify for me the correct wiring for the injectors?? I guess I don't understand how 3 injectors could fire simultaniously and the truck be running right? Anyway, this is where I am now and if someone could point me in the right direction for tests or wiring schematics..anything at all...I really appreciate the help! Thanks again!
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From: Culpeper, VA
Injectors are usually wired with two circuits so that half of them fire on one crankshaft rotation and the other half fire on the next rotation. They do not fire individually as most people think.
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I wonder if there is a short causing them ALL to fire at once and not at all when the opposite 3 need to? I don't know, just thinking out loud here... I just got me a new wiring diagram so I will check some circuits for grounds and let you know what I find.
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From: Culpeper, VA
The only thing I can think of is maybe some of your injectors are clogged. I kinda doubt the injector wiring is wrong. Why do you suspect a problem there? I bet you can probe the injector connectors to test and see if they are getting power, but I don't know the details.
Last edited by PyroBandito; Aug 27, 2004 at 04:09 PM.
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well because the injectors where replaced, they were replaced with bone yard ones, but for it to run exactly the same afterwards leads me to believe it is not the injectors themselves but the wiring to them. The colors are different but they all seem to be wired correctly unless there is simply a short somewhere upstream causing my problems. It is really nerve racking to know it is so close but yet so far from being done. I have even tried using my injector cleaner (Snap on, pressurized canister type professional cleaner).
