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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

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Old Aug 18, 2004 | 10:22 PM
  #1  
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cjsmonnie
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First Impressions

Any first impressions based on the truck's appearance? There might be something glaringly obvious that I'm missing. How should I treat the rust? The locals say to paint it over with a rust inhibitor while the more experienced locals say to spray-line the bed and that'd do. This truck will be used for mid-range workloads. It's in great mechanic shape (except for the dying part) and runs well.

On the negative side, it takes several tries to get it started. It sputters while warming up and surges on it's own (coming really close to turning off then revving up strong). It now has a habit of turning off when I try to shift gears or when I slow down. We found a good amount of water in the filter immediately beneath the carburator. How far would the water have gone and how can I remove it? What would it have ruined? As long as the choke is set to max, it idles like a new Mustang. Once the flap starts moving though, it begins to get choppy. I ran out of gas two days ago (hey, the needle said I had 1/4!) ... is there a direct correlation?

Thanks for the input and have a great day! =)

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/member.php?u=172554 for pictures (home page/site isn't loaded yet)
 
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Old Aug 18, 2004 | 10:24 PM
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Sorry!

Here's a direct link to the pictures:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...&albumid=11522

Thanks again!
 
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Old Aug 18, 2004 | 10:47 PM
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From: Right Next to U
I looked at your pictures and have noticed that there is a hose connected to the breather side with a clamp attached, if you look close, you'll also see the hose is bent in such a way as to close the pvc tube (if thats what it looks like to me) off....

"Daisy" has seen some better years it looks like, but as you know, FORDs are built tough, and if you take care of em, they won't leave you on the side of the road.

I don't know what kind of condition the air breather is in, but it could also be dirty if it hasn't been changed in a while, as you know an engine as to breathe in order for it to run right, (too much fuel an not enough air will "choke" an engine causing it to die on muti-starts) A sticking or disconnected choke will also keep it in one place....

On top of the breather, you have a hose missing, this is part of the vaccum system that helps the engine run, from the way most of the pictures look, it does need some TLC in getting it back in running condition, but if you ask questions here, we'll help you through it.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2004 | 07:37 PM
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Smile

"Daisy" looks alot better than most of the 80 Ford trucks around here. I'm in IL, and unfortunately, most of the 80s Fords I see have more rust than metal on them!
 
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Old Aug 21, 2004 | 05:46 AM
  #5  
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One thing at a time. I had good success using 3" angle iron on both top outside rails, down the back sides and along just above the bumper. I had to use 2" I think to get it to fit behind the cab. Made me a sort of cap, all the way around the top, down and across, all welded up. Some spray paint and a rubber bed mat a it looks nearly new for a 26 year old bed. If I ever get time or you really need it, I can get pics.
The engine, well, I have seen worse, usually mine. Your coolant is very dirty and your recovery jug needs some work. Flush radiator and get a recovery jug. Book says not to fill past one inch below cap or it will run out, and it will as soon as you shut it off. Plug wires look dirty but even worse, they are most likely cross fireing. They need to be ran so adjacent cylinder wires don't touch and not over heavy metal things like the breather. You will probably need to do a complete tune up, air and fuel filters to begin with. Like stated above, that hose that sorta looks pinched running from your oil filler cap, I believe it has your pcv valve in it. If that is connected to the bottom of the carb, then I should see another line about the same size running to the breather. Air should come from one valve cover, mine is passenger side rear, through pcv valve and into front bottom of carb. Then the line from the oil filler cap should run to the breather case, into that blue looking whole that looks empty. There should be a white looking filter element setting just inside the case, behind the line that comes from the oil filler cap, before the air breather, but inside with it. This will allow the system to draw and circulate the pcv gases. Pull the pcv and see what happens to your idle. When you shake it, does it rattle? I suspect its not routed correct or plugged. As for the water, it will not usually damage anything permanent if it's just been run with the gas but it will run rough. Also, if you run her out of gas it will suck up every little bit of trash that's in the tank and send it right to the filter, hopefully, then the carb. I had one with no gauge and ran out often enough that I had to carry extra fuel filters to keep her running. Could clean em once or twice but they wouldn't work after that. Eventually the trash will subside. I noticed two Ign. Control Modules, didn't I? I would also check the wireing harness from the Distributor to the Ign. Mod. for frays, cracks, etc and repair if you find any.
Your truck isn't beyond repair and I'm glad you think so too.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2004 | 06:22 PM
  #6  
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Talking Modules, wiring, bed

The Control Modules keep burning out/up. The wires fry and so do the Modules. One wasn't able to be removed for some reason, hence the two on board, but it isn't connected. I FINALLY (sheesh) remembered to get a manual - too much going on to remember my own head if it wasn't glued on!

So anyway, a total re-wire/new-wire is on my list this month. I'm going to try your bed method. I've heard the Line-X spray in bedliner actually makes the surface stronger than it was (this was off an RVing forum thread dedicated to tow vehicles) and thought I'd go with that after I patched the holes and reinforced the bed. I'd love pics if you wouldn't mind. I'm more a "picture" than a "word" type person when it comes to instructions.

Originally Posted by Chiefrider007
One thing at a time. I had good success using 3" angle iron on both top outside rails, down the back sides and along just above the bumper. I had to use 2" I think to get it to fit behind the cab. Made me a sort of cap, all the way around the top, down and across, all welded up. Some spray paint and a rubber bed mat a it looks nearly new for a 26 year old bed. If I ever get time or you really need it, I can get pics.
The engine, well, I have seen worse, usually mine. Your coolant is very dirty and your recovery jug needs some work. Flush radiator and get a recovery jug. Book says not to fill past one inch below cap or it will run out, and it will as soon as you shut it off. Plug wires look dirty but even worse, they are most likely cross fireing. They need to be ran so adjacent cylinder wires don't touch and not over heavy metal things like the breather. You will probably need to do a complete tune up, air and fuel filters to begin with.

Your truck isn't beyond repair and I'm glad you think so too.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2004 | 07:07 PM
  #7  
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Talking Carb, Engine Oil Cap, Service

Technically, nothing is connected to the carb. I mean, the carb is there, connected to whatever it's on top of but other than that, nothing is connected to it. The round tin thing (how technical is that?! LOL) was found at the ranch so we don't know what it came off of but it's cracked like crazy. Gas evaporates and it's hard to start up unless we either add fuel directly to the top of the round tin thing or pump the accelerator to get fuel up ASAP (I'm told the latter isn't a good thing and shouldn't do it though). 30% of the time, stopping means dying. I also go through gas like a Viper. LOL

The engine oil cap moves around and if I hit a bump, it pops up and gushes oil YET I never run out of oil. Maybe the dip stick is wrong for the engine (which supposedly came off a Mustang 5.0) or something. Once it said I was empty beyond belief so I added 2 quarts and it over-filled!

Before the end of next week, I'm taking Ms. Daisy to one of those full-service oil change places so they can get all the right parts (I have no idea which filter to ask for since the engine isn't exactly the one it should have, etc.) and check the bearings, etc. Oil change, lube, radiator flush & fill .. what else should I add? The plugs and wires I'll do myself but maybe I should get some slightly more enlightened folks to help (at least till I get the part numbers and stuff ) I do use my girl as a daily driver so I think I should pamper her. Soon, she'll be a nice champagne/light bronze color, lifted a few inches and towing an RV.

Originally Posted by Chiefrider007
Like stated above, that hose that sorta looks pinched running from your oil filler cap, I believe it has your pcv valve in it. If that is connected to the bottom of the carb, then I should see another line about the same size running to the breather. Air should come from one valve cover, mine is passenger side rear, through pcv valve and into front bottom of carb. Then the line from the oil filler cap should run to the breather case, into that blue looking whole that looks empty. There should be a white looking filter element setting just inside the case, behind the line that comes from the oil filler cap, before the air breather, but inside with it. This will allow the system to draw and circulate the pcv gases. Pull the pcv and see what happens to your idle. When you shake it, does it rattle? I suspect its not routed correct or plugged. As for the water, it will not usually damage anything permanent if it's just been run with the gas but it will run rough. Also, if you run her out of gas it will suck up every little bit of trash that's in the tank and send it right to the filter, hopefully, then the carb. I had one with no gauge and ran out often enough that I had to carry extra fuel filters to keep her running. Could clean em once or twice but they wouldn't work after that. Eventually the trash will subside. I noticed two Ign. Control Modules, didn't I? I would also check the wireing harness from the Distributor to the Ign. Mod. for frays, cracks, etc and repair if you find any.
Your truck isn't beyond repair and I'm glad you think so too.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2004 | 07:14 PM
  #8  
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cjsmonnie
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Talking Flattery

Originally Posted by JohnT
"Daisy" looks alot better than most of the 80 Ford trucks around here. I'm in IL, and unfortunately, most of the 80s Fords I see have more rust than metal on them!
Daisy and I are flattered. She was meant to be my uncle's project but he sacrificed her: sold her to me for $500. Mostly because his wife didn't want to see "junk" in the yard but I guess he must have felt that she'd be a good fit with me (on many levels). Cuteness being one! ha ha ha
 
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Old Nov 5, 2004 | 07:22 PM
  #9  
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cjsmonnie
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Talking Air and Breathing

Originally Posted by locknkey
I looked at your pictures and have noticed that there is a hose connected to the breather side with a clamp attached, if you look close, you'll also see the hose is bent in such a way as to close the pvc tube (if thats what it looks like to me) off....

"Daisy" has seen some better years it looks like, but as you know, FORDs are built tough, and if you take care of em, they won't leave you on the side of the road.

I don't know what kind of condition the air breather is in, but it could also be dirty if it hasn't been changed in a while, as you know an engine as to breathe in order for it to run right, (too much fuel an not enough air will "choke" an engine causing it to die on muti-starts) A sticking or disconnected choke will also keep it in one place....

On top of the breather, you have a hose missing, this is part of the vaccum system that helps the engine run, from the way most of the pictures look, it does need some TLC in getting it back in running condition, but if you ask questions here, we'll help you through it.
Uhh ... there is a LOT of air for the breather. The round silver pan thing is cracked to no end but since the motor is a replacement, we have no idea what the right part is! So, they saw something that looked like it would fit and used it. Now I have to either get a kit for it or get a new one but what part/model is it to begin with? The filter itself is clean though.

Gas evaporates like crazy but she can cream the pants off some of these young punks in Cameros. LOL When she turns off, I can usually get her back up on the road after about 10 minutes of rest. I'm not sure if it's a clogged radiator, the control module/wiring or ... Sometimes she jerks and jumps out of gear. I sort of think it may be a linkage problem (only because I had that kind of trouble before in another vehicle not because I know what I'm talking about). Sometimes, tapping the shifter down while driving will cause her to get back in gear and keep on going. Other times, I have go into neutral and back to drive and she gets back into gear.
 
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