I am new to all of this and need some sup[port in making my decision in the purchase I'm about to describe:

1956 Ford f100 p/u small window original paint
body pretty much all stock no damage
302 V8 3-spd column shift
bed needs replacement wood slats and rails
drum brakes and running
window rubber needs replacement and one broken wing window

$3000

Tell me...thumbs up...or down
Sounds pretty good to me
Thanks for listening

K

 

Well. Assuming that it's more or less rust free, it runs well, and the original paint looks good or you're prepared to paint it or have it painted, I personally would go for it.

 

If the truck is relatively rust free, has a good running 302 in it, no major body problems other than some minor dents, and hasn't been the victim of any poorly executed modifications, then I'd be willing to pay 3 grand for it.

Your profile says you're in California, so there's a decent chance the truck has very little rust compared to other parts of the country, but I would still check it thoroughly. Rust is the main thing that kills value with these trucks, that and poor bodywork (which is why I'll probably never be able to sell mine even if I wanted to! ) I wouldn't worry about the bed being shot...nearly all of them are, and there are replacement kits out there to redo the wood. Original, un-ruined steel on the body should be your primary concern.

Original paint is a good thing and it should give you a really good idea of the condition of the metal. You can check the present owner's claim that the paint is original by comparing it against the paint code on the vehicle data plate. Here is a list of the 1956 paint code letters:

Code Color Name PPG Code
A Raven Black 9000
B Nocturne Blue 11423
C Bermuda Blue 11414
D Diamond Blue 11403
E Colonial White 8103
F Pine Ridge Green 41837
G Meadowmist Green 41839
H Platinum Gray 31316
J Buckskin Tan 21215
K Fiesta Red 70618
L Peacock Blue 11415
M Goldenrod Yellow 80788
N Mandarin Orange 60211
V Berkshire Green 41979
W Springmist Green 41980

Have a good look at the metal in all four cab corners, along the bottom of the doors, and along the drip rail on the roof. Check as much of the inside of the cab with a flashlight as you can. Minor surface rust is ok, but if the metal looks like swiss cheese or has rusted all the way through anyplace, I'd argue the price down quite a bit.

The 302 is not original, so somebody has done some modifications. That isn't necessarily bad, but I'd crawl around underneath and look at how they mounted the engine. Look at the motor mounts and see what they did. While you're there, have a good look at the front suspension. If it's a solid single piece axle that looks like it came off a covered wagon, it's original. If it's been replaced with a front clip/independent suspension, it's been modified and again I would try to get a look at the welds and get an idea of how skilled the person was who did the installation. Are the welds neatly ground down and barely noticable? (that's probably good) Or, are they spotchy, with an unevenly shaped bead and slag all around them? (bad...would indicate I probably worked on it at some point). Look at the truck on a level surface and see if it sits straight, or does it sag? Drive it and see if it pulls one way or the other. Undoing poorly done mods will quickly cost you more than the 3 grand he's asking, so avoid it if it looks questionable.

I'm sure others will add to this. Hope you end up with a good truck...this is a fun hobby, and you've come to the right place to learn about it.

ROB

 

It's interesting that it was converted to a 302 yet retains the column shifter.

I'd buy it. The bed wood is a pretty typical thing. I replace mine with a piece of plywood (I reused the metal strips). My truck is a 'working' truck.

 

Thanks for the specific tips and I appreciate your wisdom. Suspension is original and barely any surface rust anywhere to be found. Would it be a pretty simple conversion to convert to automatic on the floor. If so, I'll replace the steering column also.

K

 

Thanks much

K

 

So far everything pointing in the right direction to purchase so I'll do a final and thorough inspection and make the plunge. Thanks everyone for their input.

K

 

go for it,showin jealousy!!

 

Just loking at what you wrote, the disc brake conversion kit is about $600 for the rotors etc, the master cylinder conversion is about $450. The motor mounts for the 302 are about $150 all told so there is $1200 you won't have to shell out. The small window 56 is not quite as sought after as the 56 big window, but it is still highly sought after.

For 3k including the 1200 in just parts, I'd say if the body is anything, you got a good deal.

Good luck

Bubba

 

Looks like I'll jump on this deal then. The 302 is in already and I'll get right on the disc brake conversion. Thanks for the wisdom.

K

 

Just for more mental ammo, another way to think about it is, if the body sheet metal is straight and relatively rust free, the body parts alone are worth more than $3000.
A straight bed (with gate) is priced (new) at around $1100, 4 good fenders run at least $800-1200, front end sheet metal (with a good hood) totals around $800, doors and/or a good cab, besides being very difficult to find, can run huge bucks. Then there's the glass, bumpers, etc. Do the math. Even if you changed your mind about building a truck, you could part it out for at least what your paying.
Go for it Dude! (I'm envious)
P.S.: (Now before evrybody starts disputing the costs I show, I'm estimating pricing in CA from catalogs with a 30% discount from new.)

 

The math says it all! Thanks\

K

 

No rust...No brainer! 3K for a straight truck with no major rust it is a decent deal.


Jet Jock
"I drive a 'girly' 302 because, when I want to go fast, I go to work"

 

Good as done...thanks

K

 

Aw man ... if I were you, I would keep the three-on-the-tree. Man, they're fun.