The honing process usually won't take off much more than .001". I can put you in contact with a buddy of mine here in Durham if you want. He knows a bunch about engine building and machining processes and could probably give you some good advice on what direction to take as well. www.handcraftedracing.com is his website.

Not seeing it in person, I can't say for sure, but those scores in the walls don't really look that bad. Not what you want out of a 5000 mile motor, but I don't think that they spell the end of the world. From what I understand, that type of wear can come from the engine running too hot, which causes the pistons to expand more than normal and allow the skirts to scuff the cylinder walls. Spark knock or detonation could possibly cause those scuffs as well.

The burn pattern is quite interesting, judging by the way the carbon is built up on the piston top. I know this is frustrating for you, but hang in there. There's a sweet 393 waiting on the other side...

 

I guess it varies? I've heard .010 for honing and .020 for boring to make a .030 overbore (for example).

.001 is virtually nothing for material, esp when you consider that would be the diameter so you'd have to divide that in 1/2 to make .0005 taken off each side of the cylinder. That doesn't sound right....does it?

I also found that the camshaft is junk. There is a gouge in one of the lobes all the way around. The lifters are fine, so a piece of something must of gotten inbetween the cam lobe and the lifter and gouged it. It's not that big of a deal but i'm out that particular camshaft which is probably worth $50 or $75 on ebay...

So i'm going to have to strip it all the way down and rebuild it again.

 

Ten thou is quite a large amount in machinists terms. Honing shouldn't be used to take away a lot of material, but rather to get the correct surface on the cylinder walls. We honed the F4i honda engine with aluminum cylinder liners and my friend honed extra to get to .001" larger than the listed bore size (Honda lists a .004" tolerance on that engine for cylinder bore).

I think you will be alright on the block, but it does suck to have to pull it all apart yet again. I really hope this next round will get everything like it should be!

 

Well at this point i'm not exactly sure what I'm going to do.

I am going to post on hardcore5.0.com forums because CHP owners are there and I'll see what they say. I'm trying to determine the cause of the damage and whether or not it was a CHP setup error.

Unless CHP does something which I doubt, I'm going to have to tear it down and take the block to the machine shop.

I'd like to think I can just hone the cylinders a little to clean them up like new, install new rings, clean the carbon off the pistons, replace the camshaft, and be set. I'm not sure if there is any bearing damage or sign of bearing damage - but I'll find out when I tear it down.

 

those pics look like the rings werent installed properly

 

So far I've posted on hardcore50.com and corral.net and both sites the guys arn't really coming to any solid conclusions as to what the cause is.

 

You'll probably only know for sure once you tear it down. Some of the engines we use on the fsae car at NCSU have had the scoring on the cylinder walls like what I'm seeing on your engine. I would think that detonation is the most likely culprit since the wear is localized to the areas where the piston skirts ride in the cylinders...

 

It certainly has detonated but not many times...

 

Well...the bad news keeps on truckin'....

I just took apart the rotating assembly and disassembled everything down to the bare block.

My shortblock is suppose to be the "393w street fighter" kit which is listed as including:

Cast steel crankshaft
CHP CNC Beam forged steel connecting rods
Probe SRS forged pistons
Dished and Blower Dish pistons available (got dished 15cc)
Probe Industries hydraulic roller camshaft

This particular kit mentions "CHP CNC Beam forged steel connecting rods"....



Now they also have 1 step lower of a shortblock, called the "Street Fighter GT" which has "CHP Race ready connecting rods". They also have a step up to the "Street Fighter - Pro Street" which has "CHP 4340 forged steel connecting rods" with a forged crank, etc. So my kit is suppose to be middle of the row...



So according to that information (from their website) I should have the "CHP CNC Beam forged steel connecting rods". I don't know exactly what those are....but I found I have Ford D60E rods in my block. I don't know what vehicle the D6OE rods come from but they're stock 351w rods. Now I know it uses stock 351 rods and 302 pistons, but according to this information I see...I shouldn't have stock rods in my engine. I never noticed this when putting the longblock together.

So I got curious...and took a second look at my invoice...it says on my invoice I'm down as having the other "race ready" rods and doesn't say anything about "CNC Beam forged steel connecting rods".

The "street fighter" kit I was suppose to get was listed as $2399 and the "street fighter- GT" kit was suppose to be $2199. On my invoice I was billed for the $2399 shortblock...and should be all "streetfighter" parts.

So I think I got stock rods when I was suppose to get upgraded aftermarket rods.

Also, the invoice lists "SRS" pistons...which are what you're suppose to get in the "streetfighter" kit I bought...the invoice also says SRS pistons...but I don't even know if I have those - or if I have the cheaper FPS pistons like the GT kit has. I've now got to find out how to figure out which type of pistons I have.


So yeah...every square inch of this engine/project is @#@^%#$%^$&^*%*%$^T#@%@$^ $#.

 

Man you are having some bum luck with this whole project. I know I'd be super pissed too. Hopefully you can get CHP to make things right, but I know how dealing with those companies goes. Show them who's boss

 

That really sucks!

Hopefully they will take care of your issues.

 

man that really sucks justin. I would for sure start calling them and speak to the manager or owner if possible. if you dont get far that way either take them to court or start exposing this info on all the forums to show how shady this company performs. the loss in business will be far more then if they had helped ya out.
every part should be labeled even the pistons

 

I'll have to check the pistons and make sure they are what I should have.

I called CHP today and I'm waiting for a call back from a manager. Probably will have to call them back - I'd be surprised if they called me.

I called twice, first time was just an inquiry as to what the rods were. "Race Ready" rods are not suppose to be stock - they're suppose to be a CHP/Probe aftermarket performance rod that is better than stock. The CNC beam forged rods are suppose to be even better than those. And then the 4340's are suppose to be their best offered with these shortblocks. Ain't suppose to have stock rods in it - and didn't get anything from the guy I spoke to....so we'll see what the manager says.

One thing to have in mind - is that if they try to send me new rods...they'll be out of balance with my kit. My shortblock was suppose to be balanced and blueprinted...so I'd have to send this whole assembly to them. I think I should get a brand new balanced rotating assembly...bearings, rings, and all...AND get to keep these stock rods they sent me....and I'll send them back their crappy assembly. That's definitely an issue if I have the wrong pistons too.

Only semi-good thing I found was that my camshaft appears to be ok. I don't see any major damage to the lobes. Not sure what I was looking at previously...but once I get the cam out I will be able to tell 100% whether or not it's ok. I can't get the bolts off the retaining plate...they're stuck.

 

well justin i hope all goes well from here on out. what an experience, it will sure make me thing twice from ordering a motor vs having one built locally ya know. Lets just hope this is a first time occurance

 

Justin, sorry to hear about your motor (and more) problems.
I just replaced the upper and lower ball joints, new bearings in the rear end and properly installed the front anti-sway bar (wasn't lowered when lift kit was installed) plus put new shocks all around. Too much $ in it now to EVER get rid of it.
The stroker motor is running well, pulls like a big block--no problems pulling the 5th wheel. For a new motor it sure does like to mark its territory (leaks) though. Can't find the problem anywhere! Drives me nuts.