Can it really be considered a load though?

I think the only thing to do there would be to have it on a dyno and observe the timing.

I checked my codes again today and still have nothing. I was hoping I'd atleast get a CM code but nope. I don't know how long it takes to set a CM code but i've driven it about 10-15 cycles now.

I don't know if I have a vacuum leak, the only place I can think of that I would would be in the intake manifold gaskets, and I'm thinking maybe the soot on the intake is part of that somehow. The EGR tube didn't line up perfectly and I'm thinking maybe the intake didn't set right...i duno...but that doesn't explain the misfiring cylinders.

I kinda want to talk to the dyno guy and see if he is willing to work on this thing with me and try to figure this out - but at 100/hr that could rack up pretty quick.

 

the intake should be mounted before hooking up the egr pipe. i would try the intake gaskets first and put some thread sealer on were the egr pipe connects up.

 

Yes, to some degree, it is. You'd be able to see more while driving with a datalogger. I believe the idea behind it is to keep the combustion temps from getting out of control.

 

Oh I def put it on afterwards, but you know how the nut is on the tube, and the tip of the tube and the tip of the EGR valve are sort of a flare fitting....well they were about 1/8-1/4" apart and not touching like they normally do. I tighten the nut anyway and you can see that it leaks a touch because there is soot coming out of the crevis of the nut.

It's a PITA but I think it would be wise to take the intake off and reset it. This time I'm going to get some bolts and cut the heads off and use them as alignment pins.

My sister is going away and I can use her car next week or the week after - so I can do it then.

 

right on, nice to have another rig to drive in the meantime. why not just get some arp studs? or just some studs from napa?

 

Cuz I already have bolts I can use as studs, and can just use the regular bolts to hold the intake manifold on and not deal with trying to change anything...I duno...

 

that is true. what works best for ya and dont cost nothing to boot

 

Well I took the manifold off and when I was in the process I decided to actually switch intakes and run the edelbrock truck intake off the 393 instead, see what it would do...

I got it together last night but one of the injector o-rings was screwed up and leaked fuel when I turned the key on, fixed that today and ran it. Runs better than before, definitely fixed vacuum leaks. I feel like the intake had sealed pretty well but I think after re-doing it it's better.

I noticed the EGR tube still misses but the intake is down and the upper plenium is right on, so i duno..oh well.

The PCV was a little looser than I'd like so I changed the grommet and put in another PCV.

It still doesn't run perfectly, but I checked out part of the engine wiring harness and didn't find anything wrong. I have some digging to do with wiring. I'm also going to replace two grounds and take my MSD out of the loop so that I can check the ohm reading on the IDM circuit.

I checked it with the MSD in and it was at about 50,000 ohms and it's suppose to be about 22-24k. If the MSD is not the cause of that high reading than I have a bad connection or resistor in the IDM circuitry.

Next stop is to my buddy's shop, I found some people that may be able to fix it. If they can't...it's on to the dyno man to see if he can help me.

 

I wonder if the way that IDM resistor is implemented is different on your truck harness than it is on the mustang harness -- kind of like the O2 sensor wiring was. If the mustang computer isn't getting the correct signal, it might not be doing what it is supposed to. Although I would think this would have shown up on the dyno. Hope you get this thing sorted out.

 

I've had the engine running with the SD computer and still have problems.

 

my mass air is working great... 427 on a 5.0 program! i'm just having a hel of a time with the tweecer. you realy need a dyno to program the thing. i just recently took the dually on a trip and got 15 mpg! being a lightfoot though!

 

That's how this whole process started, right? I forgot about that...

 

Yep.

It started around the time I swapped in the MAF.

Do you have a wideband o2 sensor? Thats what you need to use when tweeking with a tweecer.

 

Update time...and it's a bad one.

The 393 project has dipped even lower. I took the heads off and found every damn cylinder wall is scratched. Check these out....


Each cylinder has very fine scratches at 12 and 6 o clock. At 6 o clock you see what you see in the first picture where it's about 1" wide and uniform. At 12 you see them over an inch wide but spread out (first pic of 2nd post).

A couple cylinders have like you see where theres a long scratch the length of the cylinder wall.

Notice the carbon buildup - that's after only 5000 or so miles.

None of the scratches are able to be felt with your finger - except two cylinders I BARELY felt like I could feel an indentation in a small spot. Either way the engine needs to come apart and be redone.

 

I caught wind that the owner of CHP is a member at hardcore5.0.com and I'm going to try and see if I can talk to them about anything. Otherwise, it's going to the machine shop down the street.

I'm not exactly sure what to do because I'm not sure if they can simply hone it and put new rings on it. Usually the honing process takes off .010 and then I'd want a .040 piston I'd think. Unless they can take off just enough to clean it up and the rings will make up for it and I can reuse these pistons...

If it comes down to requiring larger pistons I'd just skip it and use another 351 block but the block I have is in use with the 351 in my truck right now lol.