Further back in the thread we talked about my oil pump. CHP sold me a mustang type rear sump pan that just didn't work because of the exhaust pipe crossing between the rear of the engine and the trans. I had a HV pump that didn't fit that pan either. The HV pump was just a little deeper off the surface of the block, and barely hit the pan. I don't know how the HV pump compaired to the stock oil pan though, I may have been able to fit a HV pump under the stock pan, I duno...the truck has a stock pan and stock oil pump because of the fitment problems I had.

How about testing different pins of the ECA? I'm working on the F-250 tracking down a code 32 and need to test pin 27 for voltage. How is that done correctly?

I need to get some oil, but I'm going to change the oil on the 393 and cut the filter open. I was told by the mustang guys that as long as there isn't debris in the filter, I'm ok. One guy commented his 306 does the same thing and that it's fine. I also figure I can take the dizzy out and turn the oil pump shaft and check it. You'd be able to see an oil pump problem that way.

 

Stick a paperclip or the probe of your voltmeter into the back (insulation side) of the ECM wiring connector. Be sure not to pierce the wiring insulation because that can cause corrosion problems down the road. There is probably a plastic cover over it, which would need to be removed to get to the back of the connector. Or if you have a breakout box, that's the easy way to test pin voltages.

 

What do you think about what was mentioned in post #749 (couple posts back from this)? I'm not really sure what to do. I'm going to call the place and ask them what I should do too...

 

Mustang what kind of oil filter do you have on your engine. I've seen posts on the mustang and cobra forums about low oil pressure and Fram filters (Something about the location and type of the relief valve in the filter). People changed from the Frams to motocraft or wix filters and the problem went away. May be worth a try when you change your oil.

 

I would almost want to try to put a high volume pump in one tank and then take it to get tuned just to see what happens. Try it on both tanks while tuning and see if it is noticeably running lean at high load/rpm. You can certainly try the 19 lb injectors, but I wouldn't do much more than idle because it will be running too lean. Here is a comparison between a stock calibration and a 30lb calibration, and as you can see, the same airflow is just represented as a lower voltage, so the computer thinks less air is entering the engine, and injects less fuel. This also throws off the timing tables everywhere except full throttle.

 

I'd love to just drop in a high volume pump in the tank but they don't make one for our trucks...atleast as far as I know...I've tried a few places trying to get info on upgrading the fuel system on these things and I can't really find any concrete info to doing it properly. Upgrading the system has been the biggest unknown of the project. It would be done by now if it were easy enough.

About the 19s...I'm confused....why would I try putting the 19s in? It sounded like you were refering to some other comment but...i duno what you're trying to say.

 

mustang what size of injector is your maf calabrated for? is it stock?

 

For some reason I thought I read you wanted to try that (don't know why or where I got that from, sorry).

Have you compared a mustang fuel pump to a truck fuel pump in hand side by side (stock for stock, just to see)? I bet there is not much if any difference between the size of the in-tank pumps, however I could be way off base.

 

The mustang pump's nipple is different because it is attached with a rubber hose. The truck's pump is a straight nipple that slides into a hole in the FMU. Also, the pump in the truck FMU is encased. There is limited space for a larger diameter/length pump. My guess is that you could hack something together and make it work, but reliability would be low, and there is a good chance that after putting it in, it doesn't work, and I'd have to take it all apart again and deal with it...

 

I wonder if you could go to the older style fuel system like what's in my truck with an external selector valve. The fuel pumps in-tank on my truck are attached with a rubber hose to the sending unit. I didn't think about the newer trucks having the whole FMU thing, so I guess that would make it so you'd have to rig up something. I guess since the mustangs never had dual tanks, they wouldn't have one that would work with the FMU. Keep looking, you'll figure it out eventually, and when you do, let us know what you've found.

 

I called the dyno shop finally.

He said that they have something they can plug in and tell me exactly whats wrong with the setup. I'm gonna shoot up there now and he should be able to tell me exactly what I need to do in order to get this baby running perfectly

 

Right on , keep us posted.

 

Well, change of plans. I'm not going to be able to make it there today. I forgot that I took my EVP sensor off to try and fix my F-250, and it's not fixable in time. Boo.

I made an appointment for next tuesday at 2.

 

thats just an emissions thing, it should still drive ok

 

Well the EVP sensor isn't on because a bolt broke in the EGR valve, and I was already cutting it close in time (he wanted me there by 3) and it's a hike to get there so I just decided it was right to do it another day. I didn't want to risk being late.

I moved the truck and found I left coolant on the ground...I looked at the top of the timing cover area and found a puddle of oil and anti-freeze hangin around. Talk about one step forward and two steps back. WTF>

Looks like I now know what I'm doing for the rest of the day.