Great idea using bolts (minus the heads) for guide pins. I'm kind of a "go for it handy man" always willing to try something new, but don't think of the "tricks" until after I figured it out the hard way!

One last question - another buddy of mine has done some chevy tranny swaps and he says that the trannys might both be the same model and bolt up, etc fine - but might be different internally with different shift points, etc. He said chevys are like that because of engine torque differences between 6 and larger 8 cylinders....

Do you think this is an issue in my case too... or should I tell him that's why I love Fords!!

fellro86 - If you like helping out.... keep looking for threads I open, I need it!! My wife thinks I'm crazy with all my trucks, but hey, when you get something for free to junkyard prices - I gotta have it! I have more fun tinkering, learning, and trying to save these old trucks. After this F250 is running I am going to use it to pull home more parts trucks. I want to find one with a factor tach.

 

Depends on your intended use, it may be that way, I can't say absolute. Chevy tended to use fewer clutches in the pack behind V6's to reduce weight and drag, as the motor wouldn't have as much power to slip the clutches. The 300 is close enough in spec to a 302 that I doubt it would be the case. Shift points aren't that big a deal, so don't worry about that too much, if they are a problem, then out a shift kit in, not a big problem.
I hang out here a lot, so i will likely catch you again, so ask away, I'll do what I can to help. You sound a lot like I am. I have 2 70's trucks, and a multitude of other vehicles, all baught cheaply. I am the master of beater vehicles!!! I don't have many vehicles with less than 100,000 miles on them. I bought a car a few years ago with a separated ball joint for $50, fixed that and ran it for a couple years and had a total investment of about $300. I traded a non running but capable motorcycle for the 79 250 I have now, and bought the 77 for $200. It has too many issues though, so someone will benfit from it's way clean cab. You will learn a lot form these old beasts, and not go broke doing it. I learned rebuilding an engine from a scrapyard engine and a Chilton's manual.

 

Alright then, I am going to see when I can get the tranny and go for it. All it will take is time, so I'll either have it running or I will learn something - either way is of value to me. I'll post again when a tranny goes in.

Thanks to all for the posts, advice and info!

 

As long as it will bolt to the engine you can make everything else fit. Driveshaft, crossmember etc. I've done it. You have one last try no mention of, although slim at that. Have you tried adjusting the bands? Do you get a 1 to 2 slip or between all 3 gears? Even the trannys out of a car will work, you just have to turn the linkage around between the valve and the case, on the inside, otherwise all gears will work in reverse. Changed three in two days, got so I could do a complete change in under 2 hrs in my driveway, with just a floor jack. Just another idea.

 

A word to the wise, be real sure when you buy a trans that it has the smallblock bolt pattern, approx 5" between the 2 top bolts on the trans is the best way to tell. the Bigblocks have about 7" between them.
I know, I made this $ 150.00 mistake when I thought i had found a bargain.
now I have a T-3 4x4 bigblock trany that I have no use for. Hopefully I will be able to sell it & get my money back.

rlangs58