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Yeah, but you couldnt get more than 4-5/8" holes in the tube around the cut region due to strength, but those 4 should be worth it. Thats the part that has to be the most sturdy. Truss it for sure.
But doesn't all that work to cut, sleeve, line up, weld, truss, etc. seem like a lot more work than just removing the couple plug welds and pressing the tubes out so you can rotate the pumpkin? Seems to me like it wouldn't be all that hard but then again I haven't done it before.
It's not getting the tubes out, it's getting them back in. If they don't go in perfectly you have to retube the whole axle which involves resetting the knuckles and the pumpkin.
Is there no way that they can be twisted in the housing without removing the tubes? Maybe like mudhunter suggested, using a jack under the tail end of the housing while it's on the truck?
I'd hope not, it's a zero clearance fit, maybe even an interference fit (i'm not 100% which it is)'
Justin
on Dana axles they are interferance fit, even heating, and using a slide hammer won't get them out, or I should say atleast on a D60 they are. friend of mine was narrowing one for a jeep sand dragger, and he cut the tubes off where he wanted for length, then had to get the rest out of the pumpkin, and when he called me said he tried that and it didn't work ended up cutting it out so he could press the tubs in. then when he pressed the tubs back in he heated the pumpkin ends, and cooled the tubes with nitrogen before putting them together. I think it would be easier to get them out with the whole tube intact by putting chains on the ends with a come along, and a solid point then while applying presser heat the housing with a rosebud, and it should pull apart.
Last edited by monsterbaby; Aug 19, 2004 at 12:58 AM.
The fact that its rarely done is enough of a challenge for me. I really enjoy bragging rights My 410 is almost done....once its finished & installed ...i will move onto the front end.