Sluggish cold, hesitates hot, grrrrr....
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Sluggish cold, hesitates hot, grrrrr....
Have a sweet '95 F150 XLT, 5.8L, 4x4 near rust free two-tone teal/white regular cab that I picked up for cheap, $2400.00. However, the PO had a problem with the engine running rough when cold (it quits), and hesitant throttle when warm. Checked the IAC and it's not chucked full of carbon. And the idle decreases when IAC is unplugged. The CEL comes on when accelerating and off when coasting. Can't find any codes in computer either. The ABS light comes on once in awhile, probably not related. What's a dude to do here? The TPS looks like a bear to change, no room to get at it. Bought a TPS today, and maybe after install it will work better! Thanks, Dave.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 14,285
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From: Bend,OR
how about a good tune up. some basic autolite plugs, ford 9mm wires, cap & rotor then check timing should be at 10*btdc. change fuel filter and air filter to. get the basics out of the way before you start the guessing. disconnect the battery during all this that way when everything is done and you reconnect it , take it for a drive the ecu will relearn and make corrections. might change the o2 sensors as well there should be 3 of them.
good luck
late
good luck
late
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A quick TPS change-out turned into a 4-hour nightmare! The two bottom bolts on the throttle body decided to snap off. How is that possible in aluminum? So boogered it back up with three bolts so I could go to work today. Cleaned out the T/B and IAC some more. Noticed the upper air plenum was covered in greasy black crap. Confirms the richness of the early morning cough and spit routine I have to live through. The engine spits out bluish/white smoke in the morning before 'kicking' in. Then it stops. However, even when warm the engine hesitates at 30-35mph, and throws your head back into the seat when it works. I already did the cap/rotor/wires/plugs routine.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 14,285
Likes: 12
From: Bend,OR
whats your timing at? what plugs and wires you running this is important. you must have over torqued those bolts down from the first time you removed it. always use antiseize on bolts that tread into aluminum. did you check your o2 sensors? how many miles on the motor you might look into getting some SeaFoam from napa. great stuff and it will help alot , cleans out the fuel system an carbon build up inside your motor.
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friday update
Used mid-range priced wires, tru-tech/standard cap & rotor, and put seafoam in gas tank this week. Have not checked 02 Sensors, they have 122K miles on them. Oil pressure sensor is out, noticed fan clutch not working too. Engine runs between R & M on temp gauge. Plan on buying both at lunch today.
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codes pulled
my hand held ford code reader couldn't pull codes on the computer, so took truck to the zone. The KOEO test said something about insufficient EGR flow, didn't get the code. KOER test gave us codes, 173, 411, 412, 632. Looked them up and would it be easier to get rid of the truck? 
As far as the EGR system, Is the EVR or sensor on top of valve typically the culprits? HAven't sucked on any tube to activate the valve itself for operation. Idle is fine in this truck unless it's first thing in the morning. Then it coughs and pukes before it kicks in.
On codes 411 and 412, unable to control hi or low RPM during tests. What?
Code 632, transmission control switch stuck during KOER. What again?
As far as the EGR system, Is the EVR or sensor on top of valve typically the culprits? HAven't sucked on any tube to activate the valve itself for operation. Idle is fine in this truck unless it's first thing in the morning. Then it coughs and pukes before it kicks in.
On codes 411 and 412, unable to control hi or low RPM during tests. What?
Code 632, transmission control switch stuck during KOER. What again?
