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Removing A/C box?

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Old Aug 12, 2004 | 10:55 AM
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From: california
Removing A/C box?

I've got the front clip off and the motor out of the truck and want to paint the fire wall.

My question is can I remove the A/C box from the fire wall with out having to tear a part under the dash?

Thanks, Vince
 
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Old Aug 12, 2004 | 11:03 AM
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No. There are nuts and bolts that attach the box or the guts of the box to the inside of the cab.There are 4 bolts and three nuts attached to the inside of the cab on my '78(factory air). There are also electrical connections, I believe.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2004 | 11:25 AM
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I think their are vaccum lines too, been a while since I tore one out..
 
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Old Aug 12, 2004 | 11:40 PM
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I removed mine in my 78 a couple of months ago. You do have to get under the dash and unbolt it, as well as the vac. lines, electrical and duct work. It is easer to do if you remove the glove box first.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2004 | 09:46 AM
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From: california
Well that's a real bummer!

Guess I've got to take the dang dash a part now.

I'm going to have this whole truck apart and that was not part of the plan,doesn't look like I'm going to finished before the end of summer!

Thanks, Vince
 
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Old Aug 13, 2004 | 10:31 AM
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You do not have to tear apart the whole dash. You can acess what you need to by lieing on the passenger floor and working under the dash. If needed you can remove the 1 bold on the passenger side lower corner of the dash to be able to pull the bottom of the dash out a little.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2004 | 10:29 AM
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From: california
So if I tear into the passanger side dash, I will be able to remove the box from the fire wall,right?
 
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Old Aug 16, 2004 | 11:34 AM
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I have a 75 f-100 and I didn't have to unbolt the dash at all to pull the rear housing off my evaporator and have access to the blower motor housing fasteners. All you should have to remove is the glove box (be careful not to tear it up...I did), the passenger side vent ducting, and the rear housing of the blower motor/evap assembly. The only vacuum line in that area for me was for my fresh air door actuator. Hope this helps.

mtandorfer
 
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Old Aug 18, 2004 | 10:29 AM
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From: Southdakota
Originally Posted by mtandorfer
I have a 75 f-100 and I didn't have to unbolt the dash at all to pull the rear housing off my evaporator and have access to the blower motor housing fasteners. All you should have to remove is the glove box (be careful not to tear it up...I did), the passenger side vent ducting, and the rear housing of the blower motor/evap assembly. The only vacuum line in that area for me was for my fresh air door actuator. Hope this helps.

mtandorfer
I agree Had mine apart last winter to replace the blower motor 1976 f-250 factory air
JT
 
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Old Aug 18, 2004 | 11:08 AM
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Not trying to hijack a thread, but it seems all the AC box removal experts are looking at this thread. I'm pulling all the AC stuff from a 74 F100 to swap later into my 79 F150. I think I've figured out all of the mechanical & vacuum components that I'll need. Now for the question, how much of the truck's wiring harness will I have to remove & save to swap into my 79 in order for the AC to work? I think I'll be needing the section of harness that runs from the fuse box through the passenger side firewall? Anything more? less?
 
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Old Aug 18, 2004 | 01:47 PM
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From: Southdakota
loudfords, It has been seence last winter that I rebuilt my 76 but I think I remember? You are correct you will need the harness from the firewall forward but you will also need the dash wiring as well. along with the dash components like the selector (fan,cooling,heat) and their is a diff plug on the selector switch if I remember correctly? All in All it shouldnt be that hard to figure out the diff. if you have the trucks side by side!
I dont know if I was any help but I know I did it and I am deff. not a Mechanic So rip into that sucker
JT
 
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Old Aug 20, 2004 | 12:42 AM
  #12  
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From: california
Thanks guys I'll rip into it and see what happens.
 
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