yes, center of rear axle to chassis

 

oh right . I think I changed with the hard lines which rusted through...thanks 4 reminding me to check!

 

Yeah, I got one sitting in my garage that I show people just for fun that the impossible does happen! I use it for bending/forming steel as it does come in handy for that. As far as Raybestos as a company goes... here is my IMHO and my personal experience.....I will never use a Raybestos product ever again. On their PG line, I have had lining separation, squeeling etc not only on my vehicles (which I installed myself) but others vehicles as well (installed by others). Their brake drums do not meet any DOT specs (after a very close investigation) which I discovered after a set of new drums were delivered warped, directly from Raybestos which they said "Was not their fault". After threatening to drag their rears to small claims court did they replace them.....only to find after 200 miles, during a heavy braking situation the drums cracked 5 places on one, 4 on the other. We called directly to their headquarters......and their production manager would return our call, two requests by us later, it's been 17+ years with no contact.....Oh, they did offer to send me a coupon for $10 off my next raybestos purchase! I contacted DOT/NHTSA who verified that the brake drums just like Bendix, A&A, TRW are all made at one of 2 foundries in China- none meet DOT specs!

 

I only buy rotors from Napa and always ask for the ones made in Canada. They always say they're more expensive, I tell them I dont care.

I also only use Wagner pads and buy new if I replace the rotors. If the old pads are still good-ish, I'll keep them just in case.

I've always had very good braking so Im not changing my formula. I did once replace my calipers with what was supposed to be an upgrade, turned out to be garbage and a piston locked up on me. Went right to Napa for both fronts and all good since.

 

Noted about Raybestos.

Ive had good luck with Bosch Quietcast on other vehicles, but I do try to stick to OEM if the prices are reasonable.

Motorcraft front pads and rotors were competitive via RockAuto. Rears were not.

 

Looks like I didnt change the line Mr. PirateCamo. Glad you pointed it out! Unfortunately I just bled those darn brakes...ugh.







Can anyone tell me if a 2002 F350 CrewCab XLT 4x4 Offroad is wide or narrow frame? Why the distinction?

 

As the listing description refers to, narrow has the frame straight over axle. This is how a chassis cab truck is configured. Wide frame is arched over the axle, this is how all pickup frames are.

 

Thanks. I had no idea. Much obliged.

 

Warped rotors is one of my personal favorite auto myths. Not sure how people managed to convince themselves you can put enough heat into a steel brake disk to make it lose its shape forever. For reference, in the photo below, that's still not enough heat to "warp" steel rotors! And it happens over and over and over!

 

I want your Corvette. That aside...dealerships and certified mechanics say this over and over and over. They cut the rotor, put it back and the issue reoccurs because it wasn't warped to begin with.

 

I had the "warped rotor" syndrome for the first 3-4 years of owning my 2000 Ex.

I never turn rotors but always replaced them. In the case of this story, I was on the 3rd set. I was working at a local ski hill so at the end of the day I had a lot of low gear and braking coming back to the valley.

I always babied the rotors on the way home. 1st and 2nd gear on all the steep or twisty bits. But at one point on a steep corner, the pulsing started. I just got pissed off, slammed it into 4th and kept one foot on the brake and one on the gas all the way down. The brakes faded to the point that I could barley stop. Smoke curled out of all 4 corners worse than a runaway transport truck. If these rotors were going to "warp", it might as well be big.

Guess what. No more brake pulsing after that. The rotors are still on it today at 220,000 kms.

Disclaimer: The author in no way advocates the use of excessive brake peddle force in combination with "Daddy words" in Ford Excursion brake maintenance. Any resemblance between this information and sensible auto mechanics is purely coincidental despite being practical. The model depicted in this account is over 18 years of age. Contents may have settled during shipment. No assembly required. No brake rotors were harmed in the telling of this account.

 

Slide pins broke free?

 

Nope. I had just serviced them with the new rotor install.

I think what happened was that the rotors heard my Daddy words and knew I wasn't pleased with their behavior.

Or maybe it was that the hard pedal method simply burned or lathed for lack of a more logical term, the lateral runout of the rotor thick parts of the rotor.

This is the Steve Noakes in the post. I found my original login data and came into the post with that.

 

Self-repairing calipers.

 

I always check the runout of the rotor using a dial caliper before I install the caliper. Use a dial indicator. Torque down the rotor using the lug nuts, check runout. If it's excessive, rotate the rotor 180 degrees and recheck runout. If it resolves, index it to the hub for future reference and then button everything back up. If all iterations result in bad rotor runout, I return it as defective and get a replacement. I've never had a "warped" rotor on any of my cars since doing this consistently. The warped feeling is glazed pad build up on a high runout rotor over 3K-5K miles.

That's my two cents,
Jasonodsky