This PM if all goes well we'll be purchasing a 1972 F250 2WD Camper Special (390). 56K on the ticker (original). The rig's been repainted and the interior was wholesale redone. It has what looks to me like aftermarket AC but I don't know for sure or how to tell.

Upgrades include Edelbrock intake manifold + what looks like a holly 4bbl along with chrome valve covers (which I don't care for - may strip from from a junkyard 390 and paint them up).

If the engine leaks I haven't found it, though the radiator is signifigantly low and there is obvious rust in it. However, it's great externally. The rust looks pretty light (surface stuff) and the system's not dry. What would -you- do in this situation? Flush? Replace Rad + Water pump? I have limited ability to work on my own rig for right now...

I looked at the ignition and wondered right away about converting to Electronic. Possible? Beneficial?

I see no scratches or dings on the bumper or tow ball. There is a wiring harness physically there, but it doesn't look like it saw much use.

Bed has rusted through in 2 places (typical ones, bed seam on pax side with sidewall panel and front joint from floor to front wall of the bed). I think I can patch this pretty easy. Spray in liner was my first thought - patch good and strong and then spray it - heck with more body work. Dunno if this would be a good idea or not...

The brakes feel right and definately do stop the truck. However, there's some pretty heavy corrosion on the MC and the calipers (outside). Should I plan on replacing for this or stripping/rebuilding? Don't want to stick a grand in the brakes but will if I have to. I've done brake work before - any surprises here? Big disc + drum setup, this is..

I'll post a link to piccies as they become available. Truck really looks sharp, and for being 32 years old these are the only defects I've seen. Axle looks tight, tranny doesn't appear to leak and fluid's ink-red in color and clarity (surprise). Any other advice would be appreciated.

 

Lite rust in the radiator...I would flush and fill for now and watch it. Most likely in the future you will need to do a heater core. If the hoses are flexible, firm but not hard and not squishy soft these you can leave. If you see cracking on hoses or belts go ahead and change. Corrosion on the master cylinder is not a bad thing as these are made from cast steel or iron and a little rust is normal. Same with calipers. Would not hurt to pull the calipers if it is time for pads and clean them up. My son has a '70 F250 and loves it. If you check out fordbeast_80's gallery you will see where he came up with a mod to eliminate the throttle rod linkage and swap in a cable. Fairly clean setup.

 

Cool, thanks for the info. Interesting what you said about the heater core. Will look into it. Hope it's not too much a PITA to get to the darn thing.

 

If the A/C unit takes up most of the floor area on the passenger side, and has two air conditioning vents at top, (just under the dash in middle) a built in glove box close to the floor, (Cause the factory units took most of the glove box space), combination heater and air controls in normal spot, and the air intake is on the passenger side right at bottom, then you have factory air.

The heater core on one with factory air can be a pain to get out. It's also different than the one with standard heating as well.

Hope this helps...