Can someone tell me how exactly to install a distributor properly? I turned the crankshaft until cylinder #1 was at the top of the compression stroke, then I dropped in the distributor with the rotor facing at cylinder #1. It didn't drop in all the way so I turned the crankshaft until it did. - it hesitates while turning over. I did this once before, and all it did was pop through the carburetor. I need the most fool-proof set of instructions there are....because when it comes to distributors and timing I'm a bit slow.

 

Ok, setting #1 to TDC (compression stroke)is right. As for dropping and pointing rotor, that can vary. The big thing is to make sure the rotor points to #1 plug wire, WHERE EVER that is on the cap. That is the part that is variable and does not make any real difference(as long as wires are in proper order). #1 can be anywhere on the cap, it does not matter.

So, if the dizzy does not drop in completely, just tap the key a touch and push down on dizzy to set the oil pump shaft into dizzy. That is what is holdin it up. It should already be engaged to camshaft gear, so the rotor will turn slightly also but not affect anything. It sounds like you did this part fine.

The issue you had was where you pointed the rotor. It NEEDS to be pointed at #1 plug wire ON THE CAP!!! Like I mentioned, it does not matter where it's at on the cap...12 noon, 3 , 7, 11 o'clock.

Remember, the rotor will turn slightly as it goes in over camshaft gear, so you need to offset it a bit so that it will line up after it drops in. Not a major issue, but you will notice it.

 

> then I dropped in the distributor with the rotor facing at cylinder #1

That will not work.

Make sure you are at the top of dead center on the compression stroke, take the distributor, put the rotor on, make sure it is pointing on #1 on the cap, and align it so #1 on the cap will be pointing at the #8 plug about 2:00. This is how it came stock from the factory. Also, this will allow better movement of the distributor when changing the timing and better placement of the vacuum advance and its hose.

 

i always have to set it in a tooth advanced and then when the dizzy is tightened down it rotates and retards 1 tooth. You will be able to see this happen. If you can't get the dizzy to fit on the oil shaft just turn the engine over and try again. I have a remote starter switch and it works great for jobs like this, compression tests, fuel pressure tests, and others.

 

Ahhh #1 on the cap. Ok, I did that, but my engine still just pops out of the carburetor and won't fire. Now assuming iv'e got the engine on the compression stroke(pretty sure about this) and the rotor is pointing to the #1 wire on the cap, what the hell is the problem? Ive tried turning the distributor in every direction, nothing. Checked the plug wires, they are in the correct order, the distributor cap is only 2 months old, plug wires are brand new, coil is brand new, pertronix is brand new. Assuming I have the distributor installed right, what else could be happening to make the engine pop out of the carb like that? Wires are Moroso BlueMax 8mm, coil is MSD Blaster 2, pertronix ignitor.

 

> pretty sure about this

There is nothing pretty sure about this. It has to be 100%.

Take out #1 spark plug, put a wire inside (I use 10 guage wire) and crank the engine by hand clock wise. When the timing reads zero/ADC/first mark on crank , on the compression stroke, the wire will push all the way out, otherwise it will fall into the cyl all the way when the engine reads ADC (intake "compression" power "exhaust").

When you are about 90 degrees from the top of the compression stroke, the wire will start to push out of the hole. When the wire pushes all the way out and you are at zero degrees you have the compression stroke. PLUS, if you look into the cyl. from the back of the truck you can actually see the piston come up and its top.

Do not pull out the wire until the dist. is in and you have cranked it over a bit more. That way you do not leave any wire or plastic in the cyl. yanking the wire out.

If you have sharp back firing through the carb/valves/exhaust you are most likely 180 degrees off !

Make sure you have the vacuum advance disconnected and the line plugged (though this would not prevent it from starting).

For trouble shooting, I would install the dist. with a set of points and a normal coil.

At this point you might want to pull your plugs and see if they are fouled.

With all the work you have done so far, I would put a meter on the #1 wire and make sure it is not broken or pulled apart. Though I have started my truck with a broken #1 wire so I would not say that is the only problem.

Hope this helps.