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I have an 88 bronco that I want to put an 8-10" lift on and run 38-40's. I was told I would have to do a Soild Axle Swap before I could go bigger than 35's or my front wheels would brake off. That seemed funny when he said it because there are people that run 38's on there broncos without the SAS, so my question is what goes wrong,wears out or brakes on the bronco when you put bigger tires on it? I have tried to shearch for my answer but the post just made it more confusing. Also if anyone has done the SAS and could tell me an around about price? I would be greatful.
well you are right....a SAS is best when running big tires b/c they are stronger. the shear design of a ttb front axle is weak....the front axle is split into basically a 2 I-beam design (same as a 2wd) and therefore it makes it easier for the axle to twist and turn and snapped u-jolints and bend axle tubes. you can pick up a pD44 solid axle which will be a direct bolt in (relatively) for about $400. or you could just go ahead and save yourself mucho casho in the long run by dropping ~$900 on the table and getting a D60.
BTW...8-10" of lift for a BB is ridiculous and dangerous for such a short wheelbase vehcile. you might look into 6" lift and then any scrubbing you come across trim the fenders. that's what all the guys in my bronco club do!
a good rule of thumb for a ttb axle is 35's or less!
The pivot bushings wear out first, then the TRE's, then the bearings, then when the bearings are shot, it'll eat the spindles, then you're hub will shear off the front end. I DEFINITELY agree about the amount of lift. Tall is mucho cool, if you're into mall cruising. Off road, it'll just get in the way. Go as tall as yo absolutely need to, then trim the rest. Nothing like a Bronco sitting on 40's with the factory suspension, in my opinion...
Tall is mucho cool, if you're into mall cruising. .
Or if your a serious mud bogger. You guys HAD to know I couldn't let that one pass by
That said, yea, 95% of the huge lifts are for mall cruisers. Its takes mucho tech and fabrication to make a huge lift work, and its pointless at that unless your into bottemless mud. An SAS is always a good move, a search in here will yield lots of good info for you.
Thanks for all the info. . .fishmanndotcom you said i could preplace my axle with a "pD44 solid axle". . .in what ford and what years was this made? For the most part i dont do alot of trail riding so my truck will be mostly for show with a little mudding every now and then so with that said should i still go with the pd44 or dana 60. . .and could you tell me what the TTB stands for. . . .thanks!
lol i mispelled it by accident it is a D44 which stands for dana 44. a lot of them are found in the front of 70's f250's and a lot of them are the heavy duty if they are part of the sno-fighter package! i still suggest going with a D60 (dana 60) b/c you will never break it unless you just try to!
ttb = twin traction beam! the front axle is split in twp pieces and each end is held down by a pivot bracket that allows it to pivot! it supposedly offers a better ride b/c the 2 axle haves are 'separate'. definitely not fords biggest break through
-cutts-
The desirable Dana 44 can be found on a '78-'79 F150 or bronco. This will work fine if you don't put a locker in it, and beat the heck outta it.
If you plan on beating on it, I would suggest finding a Dana 60 front axle and a Sterling 10.25 or a Dana 70 rear axle (so your lug patterns are the same).
edited for language........if it trips the language filter please hit the edit button and try again
I have an 85 bronco and I was told that a straight axle would be better.So i found a whole 78 ford f150 for $400. I took the straight axle(3.54 grs) and some 6" coil springs for an ifs and fabricated a mount which gave me a total of 8 inches in the front. I suggest getting the right springs that fit the perches to the straight axle. Then i made some radius arm drops because the radius arms are about 10" longer. I flipped the shackles in the back and then put some 3" blocks under it and 38" gumbo mudders (that are worn to about 36.5") under it and it is bad to the bone. They dont scrub or any thing. i plan on getting a decent set of 37" or 38" tires for it. one thing is that you do have to be carefull on bad slopes or you might mess up but i have not had a problem . If you are just trail riding or boggin on flat ground then you can get it done.
The desirable Dana 44 can be found on a '78-'79 F150 or bronco. This will work fine if you don't put a locker in it, and beat the heck outta it.
If you plan on beating on it, I would suggest finding a Dana 60 front axle and a Sterling 10.25 or a Dana 70 rear axle (so your lug patterns are the same).
Actuallly the desirable one was available as far back as 76 when the switched to disk brakes, and they were already high pinions, and as far as beating them, I am now running a spool in the front (took the locker out when I switched gears since I needed to change carriers anyway), and 4.88, being driven by a 550hp+ cleveland, and aint broke it yet, it's all in how you set them up I swear because I keep hearing how the D44 will not stand up, but truthfully if you set up a D70hd wrong you can break it with a 4cyl.
I just got back from mud drags again today, and the only problem with the truck is the left front tire keeps going flat from the mud shoved into the bead from hitting the wall at 45mph.
I am now running a spool in the front (took the locker out when I switched gears since I needed to change carriers anyway), and 4.88, being driven by a 550hp+ cleveland, and aint broke it yet, it's all in how you set them up I swear because I keep hearing how the D44 will not stand up, but truthfully if you set up a D70hd wrong you can break it with a 4cyl.
I just got back from mud drags again today,
Take it out in the rocks and hammer on it a bit. it will eventually fail. My 44 was built, warns/ctms and a welded diff. No different than your spooled axle. I broke about 8 sets of warn hubs and snapped 2 stub shafts. Got smart and running a 78 hp60 from a snowfighter f-350.