If I have to do that then I may as well replace this POS engine.

 

For some reason, I seem to recall having to replace the rear main seal while the crank was already installed in the motor, and I had the thing on an engine stand.

The seal would not go into the groove without turning the crank at the same time.

Maybe you have to have someone with a socket wrench on the front pulley bolt slowly turn the motor over while you try to coax it into place.

What year is the motor? Is it possible the seal you're using is not the right one for that year? But I don't think it ever changed...

CRAP!

 

Well I pulled out the engine to do the rear main; still just as tough, but at least I wasn't working on my back. The whole reason I couldn't get the crank to drop was because of the dust shield between the block and flywheel. Anyway, through a process of rotating the crank, using the bent screwdriver and some wire, and sliding the new seal through, I got the old rear main seal out. Yeah, I thought I already had it out too. You wouldn't believe what had happened to this thing. It was so deteriorated that it frayed out and "seeped" in between the block and the flange that the flywheel bolts to. It had gone all over. Even though I used the screwdriver I couldn't get it all out. I had to end up pushing it out with the new seal.

One things for sure, if anyone ever asks if it's possible to replace the rope rear main on one of these engines while it's still in the truck, I will be the first to say NO. I am sure some of you guys have done it, but I am convinced you just got lucky. There is no way any person in this world could have gotten my seal out with the engine still in the truck unless they completely dropped the crankshaft.

I am so mad at whomever the idiot engineer was that designed the rope rear main and the whole rear bearing cap setup. The whole concept of side seals on the rear cap is stupidity at it's finest. Aren't there people that check over these designs???? It must have taken a purebread moron to develop this piece of crap.

 

Think back 50 years, and that rope seal was about the only thing that could be manufactured at the time that would hold up...

The side seals on the main cap are because of the deep-skirt block, which is where this motor gets all it's strength.

And to finish it all off, while I understand your pain, you are stomping around complaining about the FE in the WRONG forum !!!

 

wow ive done 3 times in my 66 352. the seal is 13$ and takes 10 min. i soak it for about 30 to 40 min. remove oil pan, take off bearing cap slide the side seals in put a dab of sealent on the cap. then with my fingers i start one end in and slowly work it around, remember to leave about a 1/4 inch sticking out then insert the other one. that simple.