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Let me start by saying I’m pretty stupid about cars. We have a ’92 Ford Explorer with 105K miles on it. Yesterday, for the first time in a pretty long time, I took it to a mechanic that specializes in SUVs because we have been experiencing several problems with it. One of those problems is a slight clicking or knocking noise when we start it, but dissipates as engines warms thru driving. Other problems were the AC not working, the 4WD not engaging, sagging front doors, and radiator fluid leaking. Clearly, several big problems.
I then get a call from the mechanic telling me my engine is completely worn out, and they recommend an engine replacement or overhaul! The words they use in their diagnosis are “rod knock cold and warm” and “intermittent cam/lifter noise.” They are quoting me a price range of $4200 - $4500!! As part of this, they would fix the AC because they have the engine apart anyway (they say they found a leak on the AC manifold), and it would avoid duplicated labor if the AC is done later.
I was stunned, to say the least. I will be the first to admit that I am rather cavalier when it comes to changing my oil, but I was stunned still. I currently have it at another mechanic to get a second opinion, and plan on taking it to a third.
So I have a couple of questions:
1. Based on the info above, what options do I have with this vehicle short of an engine replacement?
2. What is the difference between an engine overhaul and replacement?
3. A mechanic offering me a second opinion said he heard lifter noise, but no rod knock, and then suggested that my first option to try should be to change my oil very frequently (every 1000 miles) for the next few months, and put an additive in the oil to help clean the lifters. Does this make sense?
4. If in fact it turns out to need an overhaul/replacement, does it seem like a sound investment if we plan on keeping the vehicle 2-3 more years (amortized over that period, it seems a lot cheaper than purchasing a different car).
The first thing I would try is some 10w40 Synthetic oil. It's amazing how far you can extend the life of a worn engine with the proper lube. Change it @ 3000 mile intervals. Before spending even $2500 on repairs to this vehicle, I would sell it cheap and buy one in better shape for $4000 to $5000. You should be able to get something fairly decent in a pre - '95 for that. I don't know where you're from, but it's pretty typical around Minneapolis. It sounds like yours has been run pretty hard to have those problems with that mileage.
That's an interesting idea. Further diagnosis on this from mechanic #2 suggests I have a lifter problem (which Iunderstand could be closely tied to, or a precursor to a rod problem). But he said I definitely don't have a rod problem. Anyway, he had what I felt was a sound suggestion: change the oil every 1000 miles for the next few thousand miles, and put an additive in at those times from Justin Bros. made specifically to clean lifters. Thereafter change every 3000 miles. Coupled with your idea, I might just have a potent solution.
Driven hard? Yeah, or driven stupidly. As I said in my original post, I am (or was) rather cavalier about oil changes. BTW, I live in the Pacific Northwest, so pretty mild climate.
Another option that you may want to look into if your planing on keeping the car for several years is a 5.0 engine swap. I have a 93 with 142XXX miles and i am looking into this option versus a rebuild. The 5.0 mustang engines will essentially bolt right in...only a few modifications would have to be done. You can pick up a 5.0 out of a early 90's 'stang for anywhere between $350 to $1500 from a junkyard a good place to look is http:www.carpart.com . good luck with whatever option you choose
>Another option that you may want to look into if your
>planing on keeping the car for several years is a 5.0 engine
>swap. I have a 93 with 142XXX miles and i am looking into
>this option versus a rebuild. The 5.0 mustang engines will
>essentially bolt right in...only a few modifications would
>have to be done. You can pick up a 5.0 out of a early 90's
>'stang for anywhere between $350 to $1500 from a junkyard a
>good place to look is http:www.carpart.com . good luck with
>whatever option you choose
yes the 5.0 swap very doable.but not easy figure 2-3 grand just for parts.plus labor since hes not able. another 2. with droopy doors clean it up and sell it.add the 2 to the 4 for motor and get another headache.or change oil every 3k and drive till it drops.it good for another 40k if something else goes. trans? with the swap you do get another trans,new exhaust,new ac hoses,elec fans,hoses,rad.and a lot more power.all these choices are yours
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 14-Feb-02 AT 12:41 PM (EST)]Another issue with the 5.0 swap is that you can't keep the current transmission or xfer case.. An e40d or A0d won't fit (tranny tunnel is too small).. This leave c4 (no overdrive) and a different xfer case.. it can be done, has been done but isn't as easy as it first sounds.
I agree with what is posted above, don't get the $4500 motor (I hope that includes install, becuase that is a little high for just a motor).. We had lifter noise in the morning (got it at about 190k miles on our motor).. I switched to 5w-30 oil and now we are at 253k miles.. and once in a while, on a cold morning (we run 0w-30 in winter) we get lifter noise for 5 seconds or so.. then it goes away..
@ 253k miles we still have 160psi +-5psi when we do a compression test (we did have to replace a cracked head at about 236k miles)
mom was real good about taking the explorer (92 4.0 auto, auto 4x4) to ford for regular service except she never had it rustproofed... and i don't even have a rusty trailer to tow around town.
could the engine/transmission be of any use in my other vehicle... 75 f150 two wheel drive... there's not much of a weight difference but the last time i heard of a similar retro upgrade it made the cover of hot rod magazine.
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