Cutting threads...two questions.
I had a problem this time. I couldn't get the die to start straight. I would get it started, but it would go just a little ways before I'd realize it was at an angle. I would have to cut off the threads I just made and start over. Sometimes this happend 5 or 6 times before I got the die to run straight down the bar. Man that was frustrating.
What the heck is the secret here?
Second part of the question...I have the tool that holds the die (I don't know the exact name, but I'm sure you know the one I mean). The one I bought has three little wings on the back side of it, and a cover over them that's held in place with two small thumb screws.
So what the heck are these three little wings for? I've attached this pic, in this kit it has "die holder" with what appears to be the same three little wings that mine does.
I suppose someone is going to tell me those three "wings" are the key to success.
Been there, done that. Except my mistake was on stainless steel bar; much harder steel and costlier mistake.
You are correct; those "wings" are your key to success sort of. They are used to center your die so that the threads are cut perpindicular instead of at an awkward angle. The trick is to get a perfectly centered tapered end on the bar before placing the die holder and die on the bar. With the perfectly centered tapered end you would be able to start the threads much easier. Also, I'm sure you are using it, but thread cutting oil is highly highly recommended and it does help!
Loosen the two thumb screws and open the die guides and slip the die handle over the stock until the stock hits the die. Close the guides finger tight as possible around the bar stock with one hand, and while you're holding them tight, tighten the two screws that hold them in place. Squirt some oil (I use stuff called "Tap Magic") onto the die and the end of the rod to be threaded. Apply a slight pressure against the opposite side of the die with the palm of your hand and start the thread. You still have to be careful it doesn't start crooked because the stock guides aren't actually that tight, but they really do help. Once the thread is started, apply torque evenly to both ends of the die handle.
For smoother threads, only turn the die handle 1 full turn forward at a time, then 1/2 a turn backwards. This helps break the chip and clear the die teeth. Keep oil on the die at all times. If you're threading a large diameter or long rod, you may occasionally have to remove the die & handle from the stock and knock it against the vice to get all the chips out of the die.
As an aid to starting the threads easier, grind about a 1/16" or 1/8" bevel (depending on rod diameter) around the end of the rod before starting to thread it. Also, I find I can start threads easier if I hold the rod vertically in the vice rather than horizontally, but this isn't always possible.
Hope this helps.



