On a fullsize, is it worth it to go to the 63" chevy springs to get more flex out of the rear end? I think stock on my '85 is 57". Or what about just moving the rear spring hanger forwards and running a two piece shackle?

Here's what I'm considering doing(I think this was my exact trai of thougt, so bear with it):

My LWB is a PITA where i wheel. Alot of turning around in creek beds and such.

SO, rather than shortening and welding the frame why not just move the spring hangers forward 16"-20" and lop off the end of the frame?. In the process since everything is going to be apart, do a shackle flip so as to get rid of the add-a-leaf and factory lift block. If i do a shackle flip it would be SUPER EASY to do a 2 piece shackle. One piece that rests against the frame and another piece that drops down to the spring. If i do this I'll have to move the rear shackle hanger forward to get some shackle room. Or I could leave them the stock distance apart, use a longer spring, and then the second piece of teh shackle would make up the difference. 88-98 chevy springs are 63" long, 6" longer than Ford and are 3" at the hanger, same as a 4x4 Ford. Why not?

So, anyone done it on a fullsize or have any idea if 6" more spring would be worth it? I know I'd get 6 extra inches of droop from the 2 piece shackle, but how much more would i get from the longer, softer spring?

Justin

 

remember man...longer the leaf the better it will flex b/c the axle has more leverage on it! I know the double shackle idea works! they use it all the time on the big broncos in the club. they allow for a good 5-6" of flex! i've never had problems with being too long...i have surprised some ppl with the places i can and will go....my width hurts more than my length! but moving your springs forward makes a LOT more sense and leaves room for even more mods!

-Ford was built to haul more so they put shorter springs, hehe

-cutts-

 

my width hurts more also, but it would be easier to turn around if it was shorter. I know i'd get more flex and a smoother ride with the longer springs, but would i get anymore flex out of the 63" springs with stock hanger spacing than i would with the 57" springs and just move the shackle hanger 6" forward?

Justin

 

I was always thinking about taking all the leaves out except the top two, and using air bags to level the truck, then when wheeling, leave the air out, and watch it flex...

 

i dunno hoxii.....i would think that the longer spring and stock hangar location would offer more flex but then again with a different shackle angle it might do even better!

-cutts-

 

Right now this is all "what if" stuff. . . i don't have the money to blow on new(different) leaf packs since i'm getting ready to head off to school. Then there's the new shocks, brake lines, all that stuff that again, i have no money for If i start saving i figure the truck'll be down for about 2 weeks at the end of next may, then go out and play some more Get everything done that i wanna do all in one shot.

BUT, i got to thinking. Everyone that does the shackle flip says the wheel gets moved a couple inches forward in the wheel well. if you were to use the 63" chevy spring with the stock front spring hanger location, it would move the axle back 3" in the well (6" longer, centered pin). I think a shackle flip and spring conversion would recenter the axle in the wheel well, plus provide AWESOME flex (flip, longer spring, possible double shackle if the previous wasn't enough).

I see u-joint bind in my future

Justin

 

Why not eliminate the leaf springs altogether, 5-link it (4-links, plus trac bar), and go with some long coil-overs?

 

yeah, uh huh, sure, that REALLY fits into my "i don't even have the money to buy a set of spring packs from the junkyard" budget

Justin