Bad shocks, or something else?
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 788
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From: Hendersonville, TN
Bad shocks, or something else?
Okay, give me a hard time, but also some advice. My '94 F150 has 218,000 miles and all four original shocks. (I know, I Know!) Always drove great and smooth, but for about a week when going through a left-turning curve the frontend shakes... and is getting worse. I had the tires balanced, but shop said they were okay. NOTHING has ever been done to the frontend except the big rubber donuts on that arm behind the front wheels (sorry I don't know the name. I don't know Jack about suspensions really) and a couple of alignments. It's just become bad enough for me to really notice that it's only when turning slightly left, and only at highway speeds. I checked the lug nuts as well, and bearings feel okay, so I'm thinking maybe shocks (since they are past their break-in stage. LOL!) It's getting to the point that it's becoming a violent shake at times and besides being annoying, it's beginning to feel like it's near the point of losing control. Daily driver, two jobs, can't afford to put it in shop, because money and time are an issue, but obviously so is safety. Should I figure on grabbing some shocks for it this weekend, or is there something else I should look at first?
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 376
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From: Wanatah In,
Its sounds more like a left tie rod end or ball joints to me, or a combo of the two. Something is causing the shake, the shocks only supress it.
Ive priced out rebuilding mine frontend(270k) springs shocks ball joints all tie rods, pitman arm seal and ball joint press to change the ball joints($50 from harbor freight) for under 500 using premium parts doing it myself. If you have a buddy that could help you out that may be a good way to go. I guess it depends how commited to squeezing every possible mile out of your truck. lol
Ive priced out rebuilding mine frontend(270k) springs shocks ball joints all tie rods, pitman arm seal and ball joint press to change the ball joints($50 from harbor freight) for under 500 using premium parts doing it myself. If you have a buddy that could help you out that may be a good way to go. I guess it depends how commited to squeezing every possible mile out of your truck. lol
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 5,844
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From: Albuquerque
I agree with Tectron1. The front end definitely needs some attention. If you can have someone turn the steering wheel for you...while you look at the front end...you might see some "slop" in the ball joints or tie rod ends. If you see this...make sure to take it in and fix. If you feel comfortable doing it yourself...then do the fix.
Also, you "really" should replace your shocks. I know you might think they are still doing the job, but believe me when you replace them, you will wonder why you didn't do it earlier. That is also a safety factor.
Good luck with it...
Also, you "really" should replace your shocks. I know you might think they are still doing the job, but believe me when you replace them, you will wonder why you didn't do it earlier. That is also a safety factor.
Good luck with it...
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 788
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From: Hendersonville, TN
Spent some quality time under the truck tonight. Had no helper, so jacked up and grabbed a crowbar... Left tie rod end seems a LITTLE loose and grease coming out.
Ball joints feel good, but left shock oily. Guess it finally busted in there! Anyway, pretty much everything else seems good, so I guess I'll put in the tie-rod end and shocks this weekend and see how it goes. The reason I suspected shocks in the first place was that the shake seemed less like it was being generated by the truck and more like a bump in the road would set everything to shaking. One thing I did see that kinda bugged me though... The steering box itself seemed to have more play in it than I thought appropriate. It doesn't seem sloppy when steering/driving the truck, but I think it may be getting worn out too. I didn't even pay attention to the mounting of the box, but was wondering how much of a PITA is it to change, and what is "acceptable" slop in one? BTW, it too was a bit oily, like it's leaking a bit, making it even more suspect.
Ball joints feel good, but left shock oily. Guess it finally busted in there! Anyway, pretty much everything else seems good, so I guess I'll put in the tie-rod end and shocks this weekend and see how it goes. The reason I suspected shocks in the first place was that the shake seemed less like it was being generated by the truck and more like a bump in the road would set everything to shaking. One thing I did see that kinda bugged me though... The steering box itself seemed to have more play in it than I thought appropriate. It doesn't seem sloppy when steering/driving the truck, but I think it may be getting worn out too. I didn't even pay attention to the mounting of the box, but was wondering how much of a PITA is it to change, and what is "acceptable" slop in one? BTW, it too was a bit oily, like it's leaking a bit, making it even more suspect.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2003
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They aren't too bad to change. You take off the hoses and unbolt it. Put the new one in and then jack up the front, start the engine, and turn lock to lock to bleed it out. I would try the adjuster nut on the top before I just swap it out. They have a screwdriver slot and nut on top to take some of the slop out. The nut is just to lock it in place, so you back it off and then adjust the screwdriver and relock it with the nut. Good luck, Ted
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Albuquerque
Originally Posted by teds74ford
They aren't too bad to change. You take off the hoses and unbolt it. Put the new one in and then jack up the front, start the engine, and turn lock to lock to bleed it out. I would try the adjuster nut on the top before I just swap it out. They have a screwdriver slot and nut on top to take some of the slop out. The nut is just to lock it in place, so you back it off and then adjust the screwdriver and relock it with the nut. Good luck, Ted
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2003
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No, you turn the nut counterclockwise while holding the screwdriver, then hold the nut and turn the screwdriver to adjust the freeplay in the steering box. Once you have it adjusted (having someone SLIGHTLY wiggle the steering wheel while you adjust) then hold the screwdriver while you retighten the nut. Hopefully I explained it somewhat clearly. Ted
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Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Albuquerque
Originally Posted by teds74ford
No, you turn the nut counterclockwise while holding the screwdriver, then hold the nut and turn the screwdriver to adjust the freeplay in the steering box. Once you have it adjusted (having someone SLIGHTLY wiggle the steering wheel while you adjust) then hold the screwdriver while you retighten the nut. Hopefully I explained it somewhat clearly. Ted
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