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Old Jul 21, 2004 | 09:34 PM
  #1  
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debestuss
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From: Fort Rucker, AL
Oil pooling

This is my first 390 so I can't compare it with anything. As you've read in my threads, I ask alot of questions. My next 390 will be easier. My next question, Gentlemen, is... Is it normal for the oil to pool at the back of the head? Basically, the oil is pumped up through the rocker assembly faster than it can drain back to the oilpan. I see no point in it just gathering up there so is there a modification I can make to that oil return port in the head to keep it from pooling (if it's something to concern myself with)?
 
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Old Jul 21, 2004 | 09:58 PM
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TheImpaler
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From: Tucson USA
It isn't so much a draining problem as it is a delivery problem. The FE doesn't need all of that oil up there. That is precisely why some wise fellow tried and proved the FE oiling mods. Have a looksie here:

http://www.clubfte.com/users/ratsmoker/oilmods.html

-Patrick
 
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Old Jul 21, 2004 | 10:42 PM
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FORD352V8
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From: North Carolina
yes I did those oil mods of ratsmokers site and its a definte improvement. it will solve the problem.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2004 | 11:12 PM
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From: Fort Rucker, AL
I've read his article on Oil Mods several times and I don't know where some of the places are that he talks about making changes to. Do I have to strip the engine down to the bare block to do this or can I leave the crank and pistons in tact? I intend to pull the motor shortly to put a cam in and get the heads worked and maybe do the Oil Mod. The Mod definately sounds like something that needs to be done.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2004 | 02:03 AM
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You can't really do the bottom end mods with everything intact simply because you'll get metal shavings where they shouldn't be. It's cretainly possible...but you'd waste a lot of oil ensuring the passages were clear.

The top mod can be done with the valve cover and rocker setup removed.

-Patrick
 
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Old Jul 22, 2004 | 06:44 AM
  #6  
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debestuss
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From: Fort Rucker, AL
""1) Drill the oil passage from the filter pad to the oil pump out to 7/16". This takes a long Drill bit and needs to be hit from both angles as it is not a straight shot. Be sure to drill it straight and carefully!""
--Is the hole INSIDE the threaded nipple the oil filter screws onto?--

""2) Chamfer the oil holes in the main saddles to match the holes in the main bearings.""
--What/where are the main saddles?--
--Explain 'chamfer' to me--

I'll be honest, this is the best school I've ever gone to. Thanks for the help.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2004 | 08:21 AM
  #7  
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William
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From: Sun River St. George
If the rocker shafts are installed with the holes up the oil will flow down the shaft and out the rear. These engines are tilted to the rear a bit. Be sure the rocker shaft holes are down. Look at the area around the rear head bolt that goes through the drain back area (right in the corner). This area will collect every bit of crap that can possibly find its way under the valve cover. Look in the same area in the front, although this is not as big a problem. You are using the drain baffles under the rocker stands, right? Running an extra quart of oil helps prevent fluctuation oil pressure at higher RPM.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2004 | 08:48 AM
  #8  
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debestuss
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From: Fort Rucker, AL
Originally Posted by William
If the rocker shafts are installed with the holes up the oil will flow down the shaft and out the rear. These engines are tilted to the rear a bit. Be sure the rocker shaft holes are down. Look at the area around the rear head bolt that goes through the drain back area (right in the corner). This area will collect every bit of crap that can possibly find its way under the valve cover. Look in the same area in the front, although this is not as big a problem. You are using the drain baffles under the rocker stands, right? Running an extra quart of oil helps prevent fluctuation oil pressure at higher RPM.
Yes, I'm using the baffles. I will be going over the engine with a fine tooth comb shortly.
 
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